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Info and plans on 22 of the most common boxes
NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
THE PHREAKER'S BOX SET MANUAL
maharaja's hi-times 10 meg bbs c/f
<call> (702)-832-7469
/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
-------acrylic box plans-------
\----------------/
\______by______/
[ the pimp ]
\_______________________________/
call:
/\/\aharaja's hi-times
10 meg bbs c/f 600+ g-files
(7 0 2) - 8 3 2 - 7 4 6 9
\/-----------------------\/
a high mtn. hackers
presentation
/\-----------------------/\
ok the purpose of this box is to get three-way-calling, call waiting,
programmable call forwarding, and an easier way of extended bud boxing all for
free.
materials:
1) wire stripers
2) couple feet wire
3) at&t/bell can
4) hex wrench
idea: ok the idea of this box is to get all of the above features by stealing
them from the fortunate ones on your block.
procedure:
step 1) find at&t/bell can that is being used to service you surrounding area.
step 2) open can with hex wrench.
step 3) find your line and another persons line who has 3-way, call
(waiting/forwarding), if the # of all the lines are not listed in the box you
will have to use your local ani to find them.
step 4) once you have found the lines then wire the (black & yellow) wires on
the victims line to the (black & yellow) wires on you line (be sure your phone
at home uses all 4 wire as some of the cheap phones don't).
step 5) then disconnect the victims (black & yellow) wires, resulting the the
loss of these features to their line ( you mat want to leave these wires
connected, this may or may not cause problems i haven't tried it that may yet).
well that sums it up!
procedure for easier extended bud box.
if if for some reason your line is disconnected, or you just want to use hook
someone's line to your line for fearless phreaking follow the procedure below.
ok go to the local can and find a line that is used by weekend visitors or a
summer/winter home, and hook their (red & green) wires to your (red & green)
wires, and your off into the fearless world of phreaking ( i recommend you
phreak from these line, so that the owners don't get uptight and look into the
matter), unless of course you are doing it for revenge!
some suggestions:
take a bud box along to do a ani just to make sure you have the right line,
also in some cases you will have to switch between the (red/green)
(black/yellow) or any other combination if your area has changed the standard
format which id very unlikely.
have fun
and call /\/\aharaja's hi-times
10 meg bbs c/f line
600+ g-files
7 0 2 - 8 3 2 - 7 4 6 9
and i'm not responsible for your actions.
if you have any questions just call me at the bbs above.
acrylic box: written & created
by
[ the pimp ]
*******************************************************************************
title: how to build a aqua box!
date: 9/27/87
time: 12:18 pm
a long time, it was impossible to escape from the lock in trace. this box does
offer and escape route with simple directions to it. this box is quite a
simple concept, and almost any phreaker with basic electronics knowledge can
construct and use it.
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
/-/ the lock/-/
/-/ in trace/-/
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
a lock in trace is a device used by the f.b.i. to lock into the phone users
location so that he can not hang up while a trace is in progress. for those of
you who are not familiar with the concept of 'locking in', then here's a brief
description.
the f.b.i. can tap into a conversation, sort of like a three-way call
connection. then, when they get there, they can plug electricity into the
phone line. all phone connections are held open by a certain voltage of
electricity, that is why you sometimes get static and faint connections when
you are calling far away, because the electricity has trouble keeping the line
up. what the lock in trace does is cut into the line and generate that same
voltage straight into the lines. that way, when you try and hang up, voltage
is retained. your phone will ring just like someone was calling you even after
you hang up. (if you have call waiting, you should understand better about
that, for cx:cq%intercepts the electricity and makes a tone that means
someone is going through your line. then, it is a matter of which voltage is
higher. when you push down the receiver, then it see-saws the electricity to
the other side. when you have a person on each line it is impossible to hang
up unless one or both of them will hang up. if you try to hang up, voltage is
retained, and your phone will ring. that should give you an understanding of
how ,bling uor-.1m=. when electricity passes."ci=q?a certain point on
your phone, the electricity causes a bell to ring or on some newer phones an
electronic ring to sound.)
so, in order t? eliminate the tracmr=uomehow must lower the voltage on your
phone line. you should know that every time(someone else picks up the
phone line, then the voltage does decrease a little. in the first steps of
planning this out, k.k. suggested getting about a hundred phones all hooked
into the same line that could all be taken off the hook at the same time.
that would greatly decrease the voltage level. that is also why most three-
way connections that are using the bell service three way calling (which is
only $3 a month) become quite faint after a while.
by now, you should understand the basic idea. you have to drain all of the
power out of the line so the voltage can not be kept up. i rather sudden
draining of power could quickly short out the f.b.i. voltage machine, because
it was only built to sustain the exact voltage necessary to keep the voltage
out.
for now, image this. one of the normal radio shack generators that you can go
pick up that one end of the cord that hooks into the central box has a phone
jack on it and the other has an electrical plug. this way, you can "flash"
voltage through the line, but cannot drain it. so, some modifications have
to be done.
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
/-/ the aqua box /-/
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
materials needed- a beoc (basic electrical output socket), like a small lamp
type connection, where you just have a simple plug and wire
that would plug into a light bulb.
- one of cords mentioned above, if you can't find one then
construct your own... same voltage connection, but the
restrainer must be built in (i.e. the central box)
- two phone jacks (one for the modem, one for if you are
being traced to plug the aqua box into)
- some creativity and easy work.
notice: no phones have to be destroyed/modified to make this box, so don't go
out and buy a new phone for it!
all right, this is a very simple procedure. if you have the beoc, it could
drain into anything, a radio, or whatever. the purpose of having that is
you are going to suck the voltage out from the phone line into the electrical
appliance so there would be no voltage left to lock you in with.
1)take the connection cord. examine the plug at the end. it should have only
two prongs, if it has three, still, do not fear. make sure the electrical
appliance is turned off unless you wanna become a crispy critter while making
this thing. most plug will have a hard plastic design on the top of them to
prevent you from getting in at the electrical wires inside. well, get a nice
and remove it. if you want to keep the plug (i don't see why[...) then just cut
the top off.
when you look inside, low and behold, you will see that at the base of the
prongs there are a few wires connecting in. those wires conduct the power into
the appliance. so, you carefully unwrap those from the sides and pull them out
until they are about and inch ahead of the prongs. if you don't wanna keep
the jack, then just rip the prongs out. if you are, cover the prongs with
insulation tape so they will not connect with the wires when the power is
being drained from the line.
2)do the same thing with the prongs on the other plug, so you have the wires
evenly connected. now, wrap the end of the wires around each other. if you
happen to have the other end of the voltage cord hooked into the phone, stop
reading now, your too fucking stupid to continue.
after you've wrapped the wires around each other, then cover the whole thing
with the plugs with insulating tape. then, if you built your own control box
or if you bought one, then cram all the wires into the and reclose it. that
box is your ticket out of this.
3)re-check everything to make sure it's all in place. this is a pretty flimsy
connection, but on later models when you get more experienced at it then you
can solder away at it and form the whole device into one big box, with some
kind of cheap mattel hand-held game inside to be the power connector.
in order to use it, just keep this box handy. plug it into the jack if you
want, but it will slightly lower the voltage so it isn't connected. when you
plug it in, if you see sparks, unplug it and restart the whole thing. but if
it just seems fine then leave it.
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
/-/ using it !! /-/
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
now, so you have the whole thing plugged in and all... do not use this unless
the situation is desperate! when the trace has gone on, don't panic, unplug
your phone, and turn on the appliance that it was hooked to. it will need
energy to turn itself on, and here's a great source... the voltage to keep
a phone line open is pretty small and a simple light bulb should drain it all
in and probably short the f.b.i. computer at the same time.
-=>kopy kat<=-
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////
// the pirates' hollow //
// 415-236-2371 //
// over 12 megs of elite text files //
// ror-alucard //
// sysop: doctor murdock //
// c0-sysops: that one, sir death, sid gnarly & finn //
// //
// "the gates of hell are open night and day; //
// smooth is the descent, and easy is the way.." //
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////
*******************************************************************************
____________________________________________________________________
[ ]
[ the assassin box ]
[ linked by grim reaper ]
[____________________________________________________________________]
after creating system crushers and line-noise inducers for so long, i
decided to make something that would really appeal to all the anarchists
and phreaks out there who enjoy terrorizing people through the phone.
many months ago, i decided on this design as the "sure" thing to scare,
or even injure your enemies. the plans are simple, and easy to follow.
make sure you read through once before you start.
origin:
well a couple of my friends and i always go out phreaking on weekend
nights. after using dayglo [bud, wire tap, test kit,etc.] boxes, we were
bored and decided to move on to telephone terrorism. there are many ways
you can hurt people through the common telephone, or cause havoc in the
night. the following designs suggest a few, and as always, they are ready
for you to improve upon.
__________________________________________________________________________
assassin box and line-surge injuries
__________________________________________________________________________
materials needed for construction of assassin box:
1. one[1] common car battery or battery of equal voltage, must be portable
2. at least eight[8] feet of tough copper wire, preferable insulated
3. an at&t test kit, or a splitter box connector [alligator clips,etc.]
4. a gunny sack, or leather bag to put battery in
5. wire stripper, or raw telephone cord- grade "g" at&t manufacture
there might be some extra stuff, i'll mention it in the construction.
construction of assassin box:
step 1.
first, take the test kit and strip it of any overhanging wire or extra
material. you might want to clean it off. now get out that battery and your
copper wire. you'll see two terminals on the test kit, look like this:
* *
a b
where a=positive tip, and b=negative tip. now take about 4 feet of copper
wire and wire the a terminal to the positive bolt on the battery. make sure
you've grounded yourself, and you should be wearing some kind of protection
against electricity. next wire the b terminal and the negative bolt with
another four feet of wire. don't cross wires, and let it hang down [test kit]
over the side of a table, with your battery on the table. wrap all connections
with electric tape, or solder them if you want to.
step 2.
this is the important part. you now just about have a working box. put it
all in the bag or sack, and carry it with you [along with your supplies]
to your victim's house. go to the back of the house, or on the side where
the lighting & power register is [metal box]. now near that you should
find a little black, grey, or green, sometimes white, box with a pop-off
lid. slide your hands underneath and pull the cover off. note: i've seen
boxes where you have to unscrew it first. almost all of them have the bell
telephone logo on them. this is the connection box, or trunk connection, that
connects your house to ma bell's network.
inside you will find four terminals...although some have five.
here's how i label them.
* *
a b
*
e
* *
c d
got it? good... now look at the terminals closely. the ones for your use
will be c and d. also, b and d might come in handy. the c terminal should
be connected to a red wire coming out of the house. the d should have a
green. if they don't, see which ones do. when you find them, get out your
assassin box [battery and test kit]. now take the two prongs [alligator clips]
and attach the red one to the terminal with the red wire connected. next take
the green [or black] prong and slip onto the terminal with the green wire
connected. you now have an operating assassin box. just lay it down there,
or bury it in the ground [that's why it's in a sack].
step 3.
this final step is just a bunch of helpful things to do to hide your great
new box.
1. if you haven't buried it, put grass all over and atop it. make it look
like it's just a clump of grass, or a bush.
2. if it's buried, try to tape the wires together [note: if they're not
insulated, don't worry about this part. make sure the battery is well covered
and moisture cannot get to it. this might call for wrapping it up in
some form of cellophane or plastic cover-all.
3. put the cover back on the connection box, or close the door. if it has
a screwable cover, don't screw it back in. just make sure it looks like
it's closed and secure.
4. now stand back about ten feet, and see if it's visible. if it is, then
do what is feasible to protect it.
end of construction.
line-surge injuries with the assassin box:
the whole point of making an assassin box is to scare, or hurt your enemy.
no better way to do this than a shock of electricity right in the ear. now
the box will send extra voltage through the line when your victim picks up
the phone [call coming through]. note: this box sometimes causes funny
effects, like ringing a phone automatically [voltage surge], or messing up a
call. but most of the time it is effective.
some sample scenarios:
1. he [your victim] picks up the phone to dial. he might notice a tingling
vibration in his hand. dial tone might be filled with static. as soon as
he dials, the earpiece will fill with static, and voltage will be applied
to the reciever and earpiece of the phone. this usually results in a
bad shock.
2. this is more common. he will pick up the phone, and touch the keypad.
the keypad will shock him. now when a line goes into the phone, direct
current is applied for your call, while alternating current rings the bell
in the phone. your 120 or so applied volts will most likely stay resident
in the bell or keypad area. when a button is pushed, it will come in
contact with the extra voltage, thus shock.
3. other things are always possible, like the destruction of vital circuitry
in the phone, which results in the defilement of the instrument.
well, that's just about it for this time. the plans will be effective, unless
you build it wrong, and i shouldn't be blamed for your total lack of electronic
skills. as always, here's a:
disclaimer:
i, sir grim reaper, am not responsible for the death or injuries involved
with my design. if it kills the dude, you are responsible.
[ yeah, right]
*******************************************************************************
#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#
p/harm
* presents *
the beagan box
#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#-*-#
concept & design: beta testing:
black box lord reagan
background
----------
well, this box was dreamed up one night at about 2am when so p/harm
members and myself were biege boxing and stealing photoelectric cells.
inside one of the hubs we found a 1000 feet reel of cable. wondering what i
could use this for, i came up with the beagan box !
materials
---------
two (2) alligator clips
cable (400' or longer is recommended)
one (1) rj11 phone jack
construction
------------
the beagan box is one of the few boxes that doesn't require millions of
diodes or resistors or anything that costs a lot of money. here's what you
do, first, go out and find some cable (or buy it, if you can't find a hub).
second, strip both ends of the cable. next, attach alligator clips to the
wire on the outside, next attach a rj11 phone jack to the inside wire (the
2-inches of wire that stick up in the middle of the reel). you know have an
official beagan box !
how to use
--- -- ---
you use the beagan box much like you use a beige box. find a house or
any telco bridging head, network interface, hub..ect.. next unscrew, pop
off, or do whatever you have to do to get to the screw terminals inside.
now attach you alligator clips to the proper screw terminals. you should
plug a phone into the rj11 jack now to make sure your connections are right,
if you get no dial tone just rearrange the clips and make sure that they do
not touch each other or anything other than the screw terminals. now let out
some cable, i recommend that you wrap it around a sprinkler or a tree trunk
or something here, so that if you pull the cable the clips don't pull out.
now string the cable out all the way back to your house, (i recommend that
you do this late at night so nobody sees you) then get the reel up to the
room with the computer in it. now plug your modem into the beagan box and
dial away.
words of wisdom
----- -- ------
this is some advise for you when you use the beagan box, first, i
recommend starting no earlier than 12:30pm, and ending no later than 4:30am.
and if all the sudden you start getting shitloads of line noise, don't panic
!! it is probably someone picking up the phone on the line your using, just
hang up wait, then pick up the phone and see if you get a dial tone, if so,
keep on dialing. the worst thing you can do if someone does pick up the
phone, is run down to the side of their house and start pulling off the
alligator clips, nobody that isn't a phreak knows about biege boxing. the
people will just think that it's the phone co. and finally, remember that
you have to wrap up the cable when your done, so don't run it through too
many bushes or anything that it could get tangled up in.
disclaimer
----------
this file is for information purposes only, i as author of this file, do
not take any responsibility for anyone why uses this information in any
illegal way. by downloading or copying this file, you are agreeing to not use
this information in any illegal way.
greets go out to: dopey, masked mercenary, sir joust, macavity, and all of
the p/harm members everywhere.
zbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb%
ceaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaae
c p/harm cey dopey's domain -e sysop: dopey c
c headquarters c 714/951/7939 c co-sysop(s): c
c c phreak / hack c lck ox, and a lot c
c call now !!!!!!!! c text file distribution c of other kewl studs c
cebbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbeebbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbeebbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbe
-aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay
*******************************************************************************
_____________________________________________
! !
! introducing the: !
! !
! !
! !
! !
! bbbbb eeeee iiiii ggggg eeeee !
! b b e i g e !
! bbbbb eee i g ggg eee !
! b b e i g g e !
! bbbbb eeeee iiiii ggggg eeeee !
! !
! bbbbb ooooo x x !
! b b o o x x !
! bbbbb o o xx !
! b b o o x x !
! bbbbb ooooo x x !
! !
! !
! - construction and use - !
! !
! !
! invented and written by: !
! !
! the exterminator and the terminal man !
!_____________________________________________!
------------
introduction
------------
have you ever wanted a lineman's handset? surely every phreak
has at least once considered the phun that he could have with one.
after searching unlocked phone company trucks for one for months, we
had an idea. we could build one. we did, and named it the "beige box,"
simply because that is the color of ours. in the following file we
will give complete instructions for the construction and use of a
beige box.
------------
construction
------------
the construction is very simple. first, you must understand
the concept of the device. in a modular jack, there are four wires.
these are red, green, yellow, and black. for a single line telephone,
however, only two matter: the red (ring) and green (tip). the yellow
and black are not necessary for this project. a lineman's handset
only has two clips on it: the ring and the tip.
you will need a phone (we reccommend a touch-tone) with a
modular plug, a modular jack, and two large alligator clips
(preferably red and green, respectively). take the modular jack and
look at the bottom of its casing. there should be a grey jack with
four wires (red, green, yellow, and black) leading out of it. to the
end of the red wire attach a red alligator clip. to the end of the
green wire attach a green alligator clip. the yellow and black wires
can be removed, although i would only set them aside so that you can
use the modular jack in future projects. now insert your telephone's
modular plug into the modular jack. that's it.
this particular model is nice because it can be easily made,
is inexpensive, uses common parts that are readily available, is
small, is lightweight, and does not require the destruction of a
phone.
----- --- ----
beige box uses
----- --- ----
there are many uses for the beige box. however, before you
can use it, you must know how to attach it to its output device. this
device can be any of several bell switching apparatus that include
terminal sets (i.e., remote switching centers, bridging heads, cans,
etc.). to open most bell telephone switching apparatus, you must
have a 7/16 inch hex driver. this piece of equipment can be picked
up at your local hardware store. with your 7/16 hex driver, turn the
security bolt(s) approximately 1/8 of an inch counter-clockwise and
open. if your output device is locked, then you must have some
knowledge of destroying and/or picking locks. however, we have never
encountered a locked output device. once you have opened your output
device, you should see a mass of wires connected to terminals. on
most of your output devices, the terminals should be labeled "t" (tip
-- if not labeled, it is usually on the left) and "r" (ring -- if not
labeled, it is usually on the right). remember: ring - red - right.
the "three r's" -- a simple way to remember which is which.
now you must attach the red alligator clip (ring) to the
"r" (ring) terminal. attach the green alliagtor clip (tip) to the
"t" (tip) terminal. note: if instead of a dial tone you hear nothing,
re-adjust the alligator clips so that they are not touching each other
or other terminals. also make sure that they are firmly attached.
by this time you should hear a dial tone. dial ani and find out the
number that you are using (you wouldn't want to use your own).
here are some practical applications:
o eavesdropping
o long distance, static-free phone calls to phriends
o dialing direct to alliance conferencing (also static-
free)
o phucking people over
o bothering the operator at little risk to yourself
o blue boxing with a greatly reduced chance of getting
caught
o anything at all that you want, since you are an
extension on that line
eavesdropping:
-------------
to be most effective, first attach the beige box and then your
phone. this eliminates static caused by connecting the box, therefore
reducing the potential suspicion of your victim. when eavesdropping,
it is always best to be neither seen nor heard. if you hear someone
dialing out, do not panic; but rather hang up, wait, and pick up the
receiver again. the person will either have hung up or tried to
complete their call again. if the latter is true, then listen in, and
perhaps you will find information worthy of blackmail! if you would
like to know who you are listening to, after dialing ani, pull a cn/a
on the number.
dialing long distance:
------- ---- --------
this section is self-explanatory, but don't forget to dial a
"1" before the npa.
dialing direct to alliance conferencing:
------- ------ -- -------- ------------
simply dial 0-700-456-1000 and you will get instructions from
there. i prefer this method over pbxs, since pbxs often have poor
reception and are more difficult to come by.
phucking people over:
-------- ------ ----
this is a very large topic for discussion. just by using the
other functions described, you can create a large phone bill for the
person (they will not have to pay it, but it is a hassle for them).
in addition, since you are an extension of the person's line, leave
your phone off hook, and they will not be able to make or recieve
calls. this can be extremely nasty because no one would suspect the
cause of the problem.
bothering the operator:
--------- --- --------
this is also self-explanatory and can provide hours of
entertainment. simply ask or say things to her that are offensive and
you would not like traced to your line. this also corresponds with the
previous described section, phucking people over. after all, guess
who's line it gets traced to? he he he...
blue boxing:
---- ------
see a file on blue boxing for more details. this is an
especially nice feature if you live in an ess-equipped prefix, since
the calls are, once again, not traced to your line.
--------- ----- -- ----- ------
potential risks of beige boxing
--------- ----- -- ----- ------
overuse of the beige box may cause suspicions within the gestapo,
and result in legal problems. therefore, i would recommend that you:
o use more than one output device
o choose a secluded spot to do your beige boxing
o keep a low profile (i.e., do not post under your real name
on a public bbs concerning your accomplishments)
o in order to make sure that the enemy has not been inside your
ouput device, i reccomend that you place a piece of
transparent tape over the opening of your output device.
therefore, if it is opened in your absence, the tape will be
displaced and you will be aware of the fact that someone has
been intruding upon your territory.
----------
disclaimer
----------
since this file has been written for information purposes only,
the authors cannot and will not take any responsibility for the
construction and use of the beige box.
-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-::
the pirates hollow 415-236-2371 ;(
*******************************************************************************
***************************************
* *
* how to build a black box *
* *
***************************************
to all who dare --
what is a black box? a black box is a device that is hooked up to your
fone that fixes your fone so that when you get a call, the caller doesn't get
charged for the call. this is good for calls up to 1/2 hour, after 1/2 hour
the fone co. gets suspicious, and then you can guess what happens.
what this little beauty does is keep the line voltage from dropping to
10v when you answer your fone. the line is insted kept at 36v and it will
make the fone think that it is still ringing while your talking. the reason
for the 1/2 hour time limit is that the fone co. thinks that something is wrong
after 1/2 an hour of ringing.
all parts are available radio shack. using the least possible parts
and arangement, the cost is $0.98 !!!! and that is parts for two of them!
talk about a deal! if you want to splurge then you can get a small pc
board, and a switch. there are two schematics for this box, one is for
most normal fones. the second one is for fones that don't work with the
first. it was made for use with a bell trimline touch tone fone.
** schematic 1 for most fones **
** led on: box on **
from >--------------------green-> to
line >--! 1.8k led !---red--> fone
!--/\/\/\--!>--!
! !
------>/<-------
spst
parts: 1 1.8k 1/2 watt resistor
1 1.5v led
1 spst switch
you may just have two wires which you connect together for the switch.
** schematic 2 for all fones **
** led on: box off **
from >---------------green-> to
line >------- ---red--> fone
! led !
-->/<--!>--
! !
---/\/\/---
1.8k
parts: 1 1.8k 1/2 watt resistor
1 1.5v led
1 dpst switch
here is the pc board layout that i recommend using. it is neat and is
very easy to hook up.
schematic #1 schematic #2
************** ****************
* * * ------- *
* --<led>--- * * ! ! *
* ! ! * * ! <switch> *
* resistor ! * * ! ! ! *
* ! ! * * ! ! / *
* -------- ! * * ! ! \ *
* ! ! * * ! <led>! / *
* --switch-- * * ! ! \ *
* ! ! * * ! ! / *
l * ! ! * f l * ! ! ! * f
i>red- -red>o i>red- ---red>o
n>-----green---->n n>-----green------>n
e * h * e e * * e
************** ****************
once you have hooked up all the parts, you must figure out what set of
wires go to the line and which go to the fone. this is because of the fact
that led's must be put in, in a certain direction. depending on which way you
put the led is what controls what wires are for the line & fone.
how to find out:
hook up the box in one direction using one set of wires for line and the
other for fone.
*note* for model i switch should be off.
*note* for model ][ switch should be
set to side connecting the led.
once you have hooked it up, then pick up the fone and see if the led is
on. if it is, the led will be lit. if is doesn't light then switch the wires
and try again. once you know which are which then label them. *note* - if
neither directions worked then your lable the switch in its current
position as box on.
how to use it:
the purpose of this box is not to poeple who call you so it would make
sence that it can only be used to receive! calls. when the box is *on*
then you may only recieve calls. your fone will ring like normal and the led
on the box will flash. if you answer the fone now, then the led will
light and the caller will not be charged. hang up the fone after you are
done talking like normal.you will not be able to get a dial-tone or call when
the box is on, so turn the box *off* for normal calls. i don't recommend
that you leave it on all the time, as you don't want it to answer when ma
bell calls!
*******************************************************************************
[=-=================================-=]
[=-=] presenting: [=-=]
[=-=] the !blast! box [=-=]
[=-=] an *original* box, [=-=]
[=-=] designed and invented by [=-=]
[=-=] (_> shadow hawk 1<_) [=-=]
[=-=================================-=]
ever want to really make yourself be heard? ever talk to someone on the phone
who just doesn't shut up? or just call the operator and pop her eardrum? well,
up until recently it has been impossible for you to do theese things. that is,
unless of course you've got a blast box. all a blast box is, is a really cheap
amplifier, (around 5 watts or so) connected in place of the microphone on your
telephone. it works best on model 500 at&t phones, and if constructed small
enough, can be placed inside the phone.
construction:
construction is not really important. well it is, but since i'm letting you
make your own amp, i really don't have to include this.
usage:
once you've built your blast box, simply connect a microphone (or use the
microphone from the phone) to the input of the amplifier, and presto. there it
is. now, believe it or not, this device actually works. (at least on crossbar.)
it seems that illinois bell switching systems allow quite alot of current to
pass right through the switching office, and out to whoever you're calling.
when you talk in the phone, it comes out of the other phone (again it works
best if the phone that you're calling has the standard western electric
earpiece) incredibly loud. this device is espicially good for pbs subscription
drives.
have phun, and don't get caught!
(_> shadow hawk 1 <_)
while yer at it, call theese great boards:
ripco (312)-528-5020
the music box (r 4.1) (312)-774-0202
*******************************************************************************
bbbb l u u eeeee bbbb oooo x x
b b l u u e b b o o x x
b b l u u eee b b o o x
b b l u u e b b o o x x
bbbb llll uuuu eeeee bbbb oooo x x
this bulletin will deal only with the basic contruction,
troubleshooting and adjustment of the blue box. if you would
like to know the specific job of any part in the circuit
just write me a msg and i will be glad to answer it.
we all know that the touch tones frequencies are composed
of two tones (two different freqs.) so that is the reason
why we have 2 vco's ( voltage controlled oscilators). we
will call these vco#1 and vco#2. if you have noticed vco#1
ans vco#2 are exactly the same type of circuits. that is
why only one was drawn. but remember that whatever goes
for vco#1 also goes for vco#2. both vco's are composed of
a handfull of parts. one chip two capacitors 2 resistors
and five potentiometers. all of this will give you (when
properly calibrated) one of the freqs. necessary (the other
one will come from vco#2) for the operation of the bb. both
of these freqs. will be mixed in the speaker thus forming
the required tone.
this is one of the most sophisticated designs i have ever
made. why? because other designs will drain the battery
after 10 calls! this design will make them last 10
months!!!!!!. but never the less don't forget to put in a
switch for on and off. ok let's build the two vco's and
calibrate the unit before we get to the keyboard
contruction.
vco contruction
=== ===========
tools required
1 ocilliscope (recomended but not required)
1 freq. counter (required)
1 volt meter " " "
electronics tools (pliers,drill, screwdrivers, etc)
parts
r1 1.5k resistor 5%
r2 1k resistor 5%
c1 .1uf electrolytic capacitor 16vdc
c2 .01uf electrolytic capacitor (mylar) 16vdc
ic1 2207 vco chip by exar electrinics
remember the above it is only for vco#1 but the same goes for vco#2.
r3-r4 150 ohm resistors 5%
c3-c4 .1 uf electrolitic capacitor 10vdc
p1-p10 200k trimmer pot - 20 turns
diodes used in the keyboard are 1n914 type (40 of them)
13 switches for the keyboard spst. momentary.
spkr= you can use a telephone speaker for this(it works best)
but remember to take out the diode that is connected accross it.
***********************************************************
important notes
1. do not use anything else than a mylar capacitor for c2.
2. pins 10,9,8 should be tied together and be left floating.
3. all resistor should be 5%! nothing else.
4. a telephone speaker gives the best results.
***********************************************************
trouble shooting
by now you should have constructed the two vco's on a bread
board or anything that pleases you.
check for cold solder joints, broken wires, polarity of the
battery, etc.........
before we apply power to the vco's we have to adjust the
pots for their half way travel point. this is done by
turning them 21 turns to the right and then 10 turns to the
left. do the same for all ten of them.
now apply power to the unit check to see that you have
power in the chips by putting the positive lead of your
volt meter on pin 7 and the negative lead on pin 12. if you
don't have anything there turn off the unit ant recheck the
wiring.
when you get the right voltages on the chips, connect a
diode to a piece of wire (look at fig. 2 for the
orientation of the diode) from ground to any pot at point t
(look carefully at the schematic for point t it is labeled
t1-t10 for all pots) you should be able to hear a tone, if
not dissconnect the lead and place the speaker close to
your ear and if you hear a chirp like sound, this means
that the two vco's are working if you don't, it means that
either one or both of the vco's is dead. so in this case
it is allways good to have an ocilloscope on hand.
disconnect the speaker from the circuit and hookup the
ocilliscope to one of the leads of the speaker and the
ground from the scope to the ground of the battery.
connect again the ground lead with the diode connected to
it from ground to any pot on the vco that you are checking
and you should see a triangle wave if not turn the pot in
wich you are applying the ground to until you see it. when
you do see it do the the same for the other vco to make
sure it is working. (amplitude is about 2vac)
when you get the two vco's working you are set for the
adjustment of the individuals pots...
adjustment
disconnect the speaker from the circuit and connect a freq.
counter (the positive lead of the counter to one of the
speakers leads that belongs to vco#1 or connect it to pin
14).
connect the negative lead to the battery negative and
connect the jumper lead with the diode from ground to pot
number 1 t1 .( the first pot number 1 point t1) if you got
it working you should hear a tone and get a reading on
the counter. adjust the pot for a freq. of 1700hz and
continue doing the same for pots 2-5 except that they get
differents freqs.
p1= 1700hz
p2= 1300hz
p3= 1100hz
p4= 900hz
p5= 1500hz
now disconnect the freq. counter from the speaker lead of
vco#1 or from pin 14 (which ever you had it attached to at
the beginning) and connect it to the spaker lead of vco#2
or to pin 14 of vco#2 and perform the same adjustments to
p6-10.
p6= 1100hz
p7= 700hz
p8= 900hz
p9= 2600hz magic number!!!!!
p10= 1500hz
when you finish doing all of the pot go back and recheck them again.
keyboard
if you look at fig-2 you will see that the keys are simple
switches connected to ground and two diodes on the other
end. these diodes are used to simplify the construction of
the keyboard because otherwise the distribution of the
ground signal for both vco's would have been done
mechanically. one diode will go to vco#1 and the other
will go to vco#2. fig-3 shows the arrangement of the keys
on the keyboard.
below is a table that will help you connect the keys to
required vco's pots.
to to
pot on vco1 pot on vco2
key freq out pin 14 vco1 freq out pin 14 vco
c 1700 1 1100 6
0 1300 2 1500 10
e 1700 1 1500 10
1 900 4 700 7
2 1100 3 700 7
3 1100 3 900 8
4 1300 2 700 7
5 1300 2 900 8
6 1300 2 1100 6
7 1500 5 700 7
8 1500 5 900 8
9 1500 5 1100 6
x ---- - 2600 9
***********************************************************
remember that fig-2 it is the same for each key except the
"x" which only takes one diode.
***********************************************************
as a final word you can build this in any type of enclosure and
should never be used to make free calls using the telephone lines.
i hope this bulletin will clear any question you may had on the
blue boxes. if you have any questions please leave me a msg. and i
will be very glad to answer it.
mr. america
ps. i would like to thank my keyboard, my fingers, and me
for helping me writing this phile!
*******************************************************************************
the
bluebox
the "blue box" was so named because of the color of the first one found.
the design and hardware used in the blue box is fairly sophisticated, and
its size varies from a large piece of equipment to the size of a pack of
cigarettes.
the blue box contains 12 or 13 buttons or switches that emit multi-
frequency tones characteristic of the tones used in the normal operation of
the telephone toll (long distance) switching network. the blue box enables
the user to place phree long distance calls by circumventing toll billing
equipment. the blue box may be directly connected to a phone line,
or it may be acoustically coupled to a telephone handset by placing the
blue box's speaker next to the transmitter or the telephone handset.
to understand the nature of a fraudulent blue box call, it is
necessary to understand the basic operation of the direct distance
dialing (ddd) telephone network. when a ddd call is properly originated, the
calling number is identified as an integral part of establishing the
connection. this may be done either automatically or, in some cases, by an
operator asking the calling party for his telephone number. this information
is entered on a tape in the automatic message accounting (ama) office. this
tape also contains the number assigned to the trunk line over which the call
is to be sent. the information relating to the call contained on the tape
includes: called number indentification, time of origination of call, and info
that the called number answered the call and time of disconnect at the end
of the call.
although the tape contains info with respect to many different calls, the
various data entries with respect to a single call are eventually correlated
to provide billing info for use by your bell's accounting department.
the typical blue box user usually dials a number that will route the call
into the telephone network without charge. for example, the user will very
often call a well-known inwats (toll-free) customer's number. the blue box
user, after gaining this access to the network and, in effect, "seizing"
control and complete dominion over the line, operates a key on the blue box
which emits a 2600 hertz (cycles per second) tone. this tone causes the
switching equipment to release the connection to the inwats customer's line.
the 2600hz tone is a signal that the calling party has hung up. the blue box
simulates this condition. however, in fact the local trunk on the calling
party's end is still connected to the toll network. the blue box user now
operates the "kp" (key pulse) key on the blue box to notify the toll switch-
ing equipment that switching signals are about to be emitted. the user then
pushes the "number" buttons on the blue box corresponding to the telephone #
being called. after doing so he/she uses the "st" (start) key to tell
the switching equipment that signalling is complete. if the call is completed,
only the portion of the original call prior to the 'blast' of 2600hz tone is
recorded on the ama tape. the tones emitted by the blue box are not recorded
on the ama tape.
although the above is a description of a typical blue box call using a
common way of getting into the network, the operation of a blue box may vary
in any one or all of the following respects:
(a) the blue box may include a rotary dial to apply the 2600hz tone
and the switching signals. this type of blue box is called a
"dial pulser" or "rotary sf" blue box.
(b) getting into the ddd toll network may be done by calling any
other toll-free # such as universal directory assistance (555-1212)
or any number in the inwats network, either inter-state or intra-
state, working or non-working.
© entrance into the ddd toll network may also be in the form of
"short haul" calling. a "short haul" call is a call to any #
which will result in a lesser amount of toll charges than the
charges for the call to be completed by the blue box. for example,
a call to birmingham from atlanta may cost $.80 for the first 3
minutes while a call from atlanta to los angeles is $1.85 for 3
minutes. thus, a short haul, 3-minute call to birmingham from
atlanta, switched by use of a blue box to los angeles, would
result in a net fraud of $1.05 for a 3 minute call.
(d) a blue box may be wired into the telephone line or acoustically
coupled by placing the speaker of the blue box near the
transmitter of the phone handset. the blue box may even be built
inside a regular touch-tone phone, using the phone's pushbuttons
for the blue box's signalling tone.
(e) a magnetic tape recording may be used to record the blue box
tones for certain phone numbers. this way, it's less conspicous
to use since you just make it look like a walkman or whatever,
instead of a box.
all blue boxes, except "dial pulse" or "rotary sf" blue boxes, must have
the following 4 common operating capabilities:
(a) it must have signalling capability in the form of a 2600hz
tone. this tone is used by the toll network to indicate, either
by its presence or its absence, an "on hook" (idle) or "off hook"
(busy) condition of the trunk.
(b) the blue box must have a "kp" tones that unlocks or readies the
multi-frequency reciever at the called end to receive the tones
corresponding to the called phone #.
© the typical blue box must be able to emit mf tones which are used to
transmit phone #'s over the toll network. each digit of a phone # is
represented by a combination of 2 tones. for example, the digit 2
is transmitted by a combination of 700hz and 1100hz.
(d) the blue box must have an "st" key which consists of a combina-
tion of 2 tones that tell the equipment at the called end that
all digits have been sent and that the equipment should start
switching the call to the called number.
the "dial pulser" or "rotary sf" blue box requires only a dial with a
signalling capability to produce a 2600hz tone.
the most common form of signaling between toll officed uses multifrequency
tones (mf). multifrequency signaling uses six frequencies placed in that part
of the voice spectrum where different channels have the smallest deviation in
loss. on the bell system the frequencies used are 700, 900, 1100, 1300, 1500,
and 1700 hz. digits are coded as two out of the first five of these frequencies
and are sent between start-of-digit-transmission and end-of-digit-transmission
codes. the following table shows the combinations of frequencies used in north
america and on ccitt signaling system no. 5:
. signal frequency pair
. ------------------------------------
. kp1 (start-of-digit 1100+1700
. transmission for a
. national call)
. kp2 (start-of-digit 1300+1700
. transmimission for an
. international call from
. an intermediate (transist) exchange)
. digits: 1 700+900
. 2 700+1100
. s 900+1100
. 4 700+1300
. 5 900+1300
more: (enter) or (y)es, (n)o, (ns)non-stop? ns . 6 1100+1300
. 7 700+1500
. 8 900+1500
. 9 1100+1500
. 0 1300+1500
. st (end of digit 1500+1700
. transmission)
the mf signals are sent over the normal voice channels and are transmitted like
speech. they may be sent either by a switchboard operator or, by automatic
equipment. the reader may possibly have heard these interoffice signals. on
some systems the operator's signaling is occasionally audible, and sometimes
the automatic signaling can be faintly heard due to crosstalk. the quiet
listener may hear a faraway flurry of faint discordant notes. the frequency
2600 hz is transmitted continuously on all voice channels between toll offices
when the channel is free. this frequency also acts as a disconnect signal,
indicating that the voice channel should return to its unused status. when the
subscriber dials the number it reaches his local central office and possibly
toll office by dc pulsing (unless touch-tone dialing was used). the toll office
selects a free voice channel in an appropriate trunk and stops the 2600 hz
tone. the office at the end of that trunk detects the break in the 2600 hz
signal and is alerted to receive a toll telephone number. the number is sent in
the mf code listed above. one toll office passes the number to another until
the called central office is reached. the central office rings the called
telephone. when either party replaces his receiver the call is disconnected and
the toll offices tell each other this by transmitting the 2600 hz tone again.
it is possible to interfere with the telephone trunking mechanism by
transmitting the 2600 hz tone from the subscriber's telephone. an at&t story
has it that a new york shirt manufacturer once broke his front tooth in such a
way that he transmitted a brief 2600 hz whistle every time he said the word
"shirt" on the telephone. an eastern airline office in atlanta was plagued by
telephone disconnects for seven years and then discovered that they were caused
by the shrieks of exotic birds in the hotel lobby cocktail lounge. captain
crunch breakfast cereal packets were once delivered with a toy whistle which
produced a pure 2600 hz tone. a brief 2600 hz tone received by a toll office
causes it to free the voice channel in question and place a 2600 hz tone on the
channel to the next toll office. a blue box call is started by
placing a long distance call in the normal way either to a free number
(information or a valid 800 series number) or else to a close-by destination
which is cheap to call. this is the call which will appear on the cama tape.
once dialing is completed, your nearby tandem (toll office) routes the call to
the tandem office at the destination, possibly through intermediate tandems
along the way. as soon as you hear ringing from the other end, you feed 2600 hz
into your phone for one second. your local co is unaccustomed to getting 2600
hz and so simply ignores it, but passes it on to the nearby tandem. this
tandem can recognize 2600 hz as a disconnect idle from other tandems, but is
not built to react to the signal coming from a co. so it ignores it and passes
it on. but the next tandem, thinking you hung up, cancels the call. this leaves
you hanging, still connected to a toll line between tandems. after one second
of 2600 hz, you remove it. the distant tandem now sees that the line is no
longer idle, and so it connects an incoming sender. as soon as you hear the
click signifying this, you have ten seconds to dial the desired number,
preceded by kp and followed by st. when the number answers, a signal is sent
back and the cama tape punched to indicate the connection time. at the end of
the call, the cama tape is again punched with your number, the time and the
number you originally dialed. this is the call and time for which you will be
billed (unless it is free) and the number actually reached with the blue box is
not recorded. because of the widespread use of 2600 hz detectors and ess which
can trace in seconds, blue boxing is a high risk method of phreaking.
*******************************************************************************
---===*<*> using a blue box <*>*===---
this is the tone matrix for a box which generates tones that operators use to
dial. rotary works as well, on operator lines, but this is technological(!).
now i agree with the opinion of a well known phreak that 'boxing' is/will be
for the most part dead, but this is tradition... first, you dial dir.asst, or
an oper. etc, then you blast the line with a 2600hz tone. this gives you the
line, this is also how ma bell tracks down blue boxers... there are 2600hz
detectors s y stems, and even an old #4 crossbars... once on an oper. trunk
line, you use your blue box/rotary to dial...
so, if you use 2600hz, which is necessary, unless you are *very* careful,
you will be snagged.
finally, this is what you read so long and hard for:
700 : 1 : 2 : 4 : 7 : 11 :
900 : + : 3 : 5 : 8 : 12 :
1100 : + : + : 6 : 9 : kp :
1300 : + : + : + : 10 : kp2 :
1500 : + : + : + : + : st :
: 700 : 900 : 1100 : 1300 : 1500 :
use kp to start a call, and st to stop, with the beloved 2600hz tone to
disconnect. i also hear that 2 600hz tones reset sprint nodes and gives you
their initial tone...
now, if you're wondering about what to call from an operator trunk, here are
some goodies to help you out:
xxx+101 - toll switching
xxx+121 - local operator
xxx+131 - information
xxx+141 - rate and route
xxx+181 - coin refund operator
xxx+11501 - mobile operator
xxx+11521 - mobile operator
xxx+11511 - conference operator
these work with rotary or operators to nes, but only on oper. trunk.
thanks for listening!
blue boxing - part ii
while reading the fine article on the blue box, i saw that there is alot
of data left out of the document. i hope this adds, in some small way, to the
information.
first the tones. while all the information is correct, the timing specs
were not included. the tone pairs are to remain on for 1/10 sec. with 1/10
sec. of silence between digits. the 'kp' tones should be sent for 2/10 sec. a
way to defeat the 2600hz trap is to send along with the 2600hz some pink
noise (most of the energy in this signal should be above 3000hz, this idea
won't make it over the toll network, but should carry as far as your local
toll center) so that the traps won't find 'pure' 2600hz on the trunk. this is
not a perfectly safe way to box, but it should slow down the discovery.
as to use, the first thing you need to understand is that there are
two(2) types of toll completing trunk, inward and outward. the names are
referenced to the office that is switching the call(the toll center that
serves the wats line you called) and each type of trunk has a different class
of service. from an inward toll completing trunk, you can reach the different
service operators, the toll test board, and the inward operator. some offices
also allow remote testing and it is in these offices that you can access the
outward to ll completing trunks. the outward trunks allow you to make
verification (emergency) calls, do service monitoring (tapping), stack
trunks (busy out all trunks between la and nyc), enable and disable tsps
positions, and in some cases (on some 4a's) issue temporary rerouting
instructions (send all calls from la to nyc via miami, boston, or any other
class 5 office or offices). both type of trunks allow you to place a 'standard'
call with a box.
in some offices, mostly the small ones with a toll test board that is
unattended at night and on weekends, you cange to an outward toll completing
trunk as well as performing other test and routing functions. you do this by
using three digit codes that are invalid exchang es(not of the pattern nnx[see
note 1]). during the sixites the codes used were fairly standard and
consistent, however when the b oxes became popular and the phreaks started
doing things like routing all calls from dallas to ft. worth via washtngton
d.c. mother started changing the test codes on a random(as far as i know )
basis. what i would suggest is that everybody interested in doing this sort of
thing pick out a nice quiet little office somewhere and work on discovering
the
codes acceptable to that office. bering plan area (npa, also known as area
code) has an office desiignated as its master office. this office cont rols
all of the other toll offices in the area as well as serving as a
concentration
point for most out of area calls. to access the services of a non-master
office
you need it's 'city code', this is a three(3) digit code that is of the form
0xx, and is sent after the area code [see note 2 ]. as an example, the
'city
code' for canton, ohio is 042; thus to reach the inward operator in canton,
you
would send 'kp-216-042-121-st' where as if you wanted the inward operator in
clevela nd, you would send 'kp-216-121-st'. the reason this is necessary is
that the operator in cleveland can't verify a number in canton, so if you want
to ve rify someone in canton you need the city code. also, most ar ea master
off ices have dedicated data trunks to the network control center and thus
don't accept test and rerouting comman ds over the switched net-work. in
conclusion, the switching netw ork will do a lot more for you then connect
you to people and the small offices that require a 'city code' are the type of
office to try to break.
nickie haflinger, the coven.
note 1: the normal format for telephone numbers is as follows:
nyn/nnx-xxxx. where n=any digit exce pt 1 and 0; y=0 or 1 , and x=any digit.
yes i know that in some area codes the nnx format has changed to nxx . this
is
a new occurrence and only occur where there has be an outrageous population
increase in the last few years and all of the funny exchanges are connected
directly to master offices and thus don't conflict with the 'city code' for
mat
note 2: you can obtain the 'city code' for a number by calling rate and
route and asking for the 'numbers route' to nyn/nnx(i.e. 914/725). or if you
leave me a message with the area code and first three of a number, i will get
you the 'city code'.
*******************************************************************************
%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+
%how to build a bloto box+
%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+%+
finally, it is here! what was first conceived as a joke to fool the inncoent
phreakers around america has finally been concieved by the one phreak who is
the expert on lines and voltage: the traveler. other boxes by the traveler
include the white gold box, the aqua box, the diverti box, and the cold box.
all of those plans will soon be available in a bbs/ae near you!
well, for you people who are unenlightened about the blotto box, here is a
brief summery of a legend.
--*-=> the blotto box <=-*--
for years now every pirate has dreamed of the blotto box. it was at first
made as a joke to mock more ignorant people into thinking that the function
of it actually was possible. well, if you are the voltage master, it is
possible. originally conceived by king blotto of much fame, the blotto box is
finally available to the public.
note: the traveler can not be responcable for the information disclosed in
the file! this file is strictly for informational purposes and should not be
actually built and used! usage of this electronical impulse machine could have
the severe results listed below and could result in high federal prosecution!
all right, now that that is cleared up, here is the basis of the box and
it's function.
the blotto box is every phreaks dream... you could hold at&t down on it's
knee's with this device. because, quite simply, it can turn off the phone
lines everywhere. nothing. blotto. no calls will be allowed out of an area
code, and no calls will be allowed in. no calls can be made inside it for that
matter. as long as the switchhing system stays the same, this box will not
stop at a mere area code. it will stop at nothing. the electrical impulses
that emit from this box will open every line. every line will ring and ring
and ring... the voltage will never be cut off until the box/ generator is
stopped. this is no 200 volt job, here. we are talking generator. every phone
line will continue to ring, and people close to the box may be electricuted if
they pick up the phone.
but, the blotto box can be stopped by merely cutting of the line or
generator. if they are cut off then nothing will emit any longer. it will take
a while for the box to calm back down again, but that is merely a superficial
aftereffect. once again: construction and use of this box is not advised! the
blotto box will continue as long as thee is electricity to continue with.
ok, that is what it does, now, here are some interesting things for you to
do with it...
--*-=> the blotto box functions and installation <=-*--
once you have installed your blotto, there is no turning back. the
following are the instructions for construction and use of this box. please
read and heed all warnings in the above section before you attempt to
construct this box.
materials:
- a honda portable generator or a main power outlet like in a
stadium or some such place.
- a radio shack cord set for 400 volts that splices a female
plug into a phone line jack.
- a meter of voltage to attach to the box itself.
- a green base (i.e. one of the nice boxes about 3' by 4' that
you see around in your neighborhood. they are the main switch
boards and would be a more effective line to start with.
or: a regular phone jack (not your own, and not in your area
code!
- a soudering iron and much souder.
- a remote control or long wooden pole.
now. you must have guessed the construction from that. if not, here goes,
i will explain in detail. take the honda portable generator and all of the
other listed equiptment and go out and hunt for a green base. make sure it is
one on the ground or hanging at head level from a pole, not the huge ones at
the top of telephone poles. open it up with anything convienent, if you are
two feeble that fuck don't try this. take a look inside... you are hunting
for color-coordinating lines of green and red. now, take out your radio shack
cord and rip the meter thing off. replace it with the voltage meter about. a
good level to set the voltage to is about 1000 volts. now, attach the voltage
meter to the cord and set the limit for one thousand. plug the other end of
the cord into the generator. take the phone jack and splice the jack part
off. open it up and match the red and green wires with the other red and green
wires. note: if you just had the generator on and have done this in the
correct order, you will be a crispy critter. keep the generator off until you
plan to start it up. now, sauder those lines together carefully. wrap duck
tape or insultation tape around all of the wires. now, place the remote
control right on to the startup of the generator. if you have the long pole,
make sure it is very long and stand back as far away as you can get and reach
the pole over. notice: if you are going right along with this without reading
the file first, you sill realize now that your area code is about to become
null! then, getting back, twitch the pole/remote control and run for your
damn life. anywhere, just get away from it. it will be generating so much
electricity that if you stand to close you will kill yourself. the generator
will smoke, etc. but will not stop. you are now killing your area code,
because all of that energy is spreading through all of the phone lines around
you in every direction.
have a nice day!
--*-=> the blotto box: aftermath <=-*--
original idea: king blotto.
*******************************************************************************
i know all you major phone tappers are probably all sitting there going
"oooooo! ahhhhh!" and i know what you're saying... but this is for the
guys/girls who have some electrical knowledge, but not enough to put some-
thing together by themselves...(like this, anyway.)
here we go.
i: the beige box
also commonly referred to as the "bud box". this is extremely simple to
construct, and doesn't take much time.
first, get about a 12 foot phone cord. regular. they cost about uh...$2.50
at k-mart or something. second, cut off one of the ends of it. (ie, cut the
little plastic thingy off). third, cut some of the plastic stuff off; like
get a razor blade and cut it, but don't cut the wires inside. (very tricky).
fourth, when you see the wires inside, there should be a red, a green, a
yellow, and a black. ignore the yellow and black. in fact, cut them off. now
strip some of the little red and green plastic off. (yes, with your razor
blade). now get out your soldering gun! (oh, did i forget to mention that?)
now, get some solder and some alligator clips. (available at radio shack for
about $1.10 for 10 of them). now solder the green wire to one clip, and the
red to another.
simple? you've finished your first phone 'tap'. now, grab your fone, (ie,
the receiver), and head outside.
in your backyard, there should be a silver box with "bell" written on it.
they're not that hard to find, usually, you can just look up at the telephone
poll and there are wires leading down. anyway--pop off the little box. if it
doesn't budge, go grab a screwdriver. now unscrew the big screw at the bottom
of the box. now pop it off. there should be screws and wires that look some-
thing like this:
*(red wire) *(green wire)
*(screw)
*(yellow) *(black)
or something along those lines. the little asteriks are screws. usually,
(at least around my neighborhood), the green alligator clip goes to the green
screw, and the red to the red. it could be different, however, so switch them
around if needed. i don't think the bottom screws are ever needed, unless the
house has another separate fone line. and be careful! i got shocked once, and
it wasn't very phun..
alright, so that's basic, and it's very easy to get caught with, so don't
try it unless your neighbors aren't going to be home for a long time, or are
on vacation. a neato nifty thing to do is to stick an automatic recorder in
their little box. (when i say 'their', i am referring to your victim's).
they're available at radio shack for $19. pretty steep unless you're a rich
kid, which i'm not, but that's another story. so, you rip one off. (haha,
joke... i do not condone stealing things). ok, so anyway, you buy one from
radio shack for $19, use it until you don't need it anymore (up to 30 days,
usually), and then take it back... if it's in good condition. anyway (for
the 4th time), you get a microcassette recorder (you can buy mine!) and
stick your little contraption in the silver bell box. then the recording
will start when they pick up the fone, and stop automatically when they're
done. just make sure your neighbors don't check their bell box often.
(and *remember*, the fine for evesdropping is 5 years and $10,000.. the
choice is yours... hehehehe).
ii: wireless transmitter plans
this is a transmitter that consists on a one colpitts oscillator that
takes its power from the fone line. since the resistance it puts on the
line is less that 100 ohms, it has no effect on the telephone performance,
and can't be detected by your neighbors or ma bell. since it's a low-powered
device that doesn't use an antenna for radiation, it is legal to the fcc...
but--not legal for what we're going to do with it!
what it does, is use four diodes to form a bridge rectifier. it produces
a varying dc voltage varying with the auto-signals on the line. that voltage
is used to supply the voltage for the oscillator transistor. which is
connected to a radio circuit. from there, you can tune it to any channel you
want. the rest will be explained inn text.
parts list
item description
===========================================================================
c1 47-pf ceramic disk capacitor
c2,c3 27-pf mica capacitor
cr1, cr2, cr3, cr4 germanium diode 1n90 or equivalent
r1 100 ohm, 1/4 watt 10% composition resistor
r2 10k, 1/4 watt 10% composition resistor
r3 .7k, 1/4 watt "" ""
l1 2 uh radio frequency choke (see text)
l2 5 turns no. 20 wire (see text)
q1 npn rf transistor 2n5179 or equivalent
==========================================================================
l1 may be constructed by winding approx. 40 turns of no. 36 enamel wire
on a mega-ohm, 1/2 watt resistor. the value of l1 is not critical. l2 can be
made by wrapping 5 turns of no. 20 wire around a 1/4 inch form. after the wire
is wrapped, the form can be removed. just solder it into place on the circuit
board. it should hold quite nicely. also be sure to position q1 so that the
emitter, base, and collector are in the proper hols. the schematic should be
pretty easy to follw. although it has an unusual number of grounds, it still
works.
-----------------l1----------------------
cr1/ \cr2 ---------------
----a-----------------/ \ ---
---\ / c2
l2 cr3\ /cr4 c1 r2 ----r1
-- gnd c3 ----
----gnd ---------base
collector r3 \ / b-----------------
----------- \/\ <-
q1 gnd \/
emitter (gnd)
ok, now go to the box, remove the red wire that was already on screw 1,
and attach it to wire "a" of the bug. then attach wire "b" to the screw
itself. you can adjust the frequency which it comes out on the fm channel
by either smashing, or widening thec coils of l2. it takes a few minutes to
get to work right, but it is also very versatile. you can change the frequen-
cy at will, and you can easily record off your radio.
*******************************************************************************
/-/-/-/-/-/-\-\-\-\-\-\
<:-\-brown box plans-/-:>
\-\-\-\-\-\-/-/-/-/-/-/
(>introduction<)
this is a fairly simple modification that can be made to any phone.
all it does is allow you to take any 2 lines in your house and create a party
line. so far i have not heard of any problems with it from my friends that have
set one up and and i think that the convenience of having two people on line
at any one time will make up for the minor volume loss.
(>phone modification instructions<)
here is the diagram:
key:___________________________________
! part ! symbol !
-----------------------------------
!black wire ! * !
!yellow wire ! = !
!red wire ! + !
!green wire ! - !
!spdt switch ! _/_ !
! _/_ !
!vertical wire ! !
!horizontal wire ! _ !
-----------------------------------
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* ==_/_- +
*******_/_++++++
_____phone____
---------------------------------------
in some houses the black and yellow are already wired in others you
will have to go out to your box and rewire it. a good way to figure out which
line is which is to take the phone you are looking for off the hook. then you
only need to take the red and green wires entering your phone and hook them
to the different pairs of red and green going into the house. you can't hurt
anything in the phone or telephone by probeing. when you find the pair that
you want take the black from your line and attach it to the red of the other
line then take the yellow and attach it to the green line. now you are all set
to go. for people with rotary phones you can have one person call you then
place the second call out to the other person. though not phreakers tool, the
brown box can be phun.
_______________________________________________________________________________
o written by the doc & edited by 13th floor enterprises
ehhhh-yup
done
duh
hehe
*******************************************************************************
@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@
!@ @!
@! !@
!@ @!
@! the bud box !@
!@ ----------- @!
@! !@
!@ @!
@! revision 1.0 !@
!@ by: dr. d-code & the pimp @!
@! of the high mountain hackerz !@
!@ @!
@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@!@
necessary materials
-------------------
four alligator clips
one telephone
some telephone wire
instructions
------------
1) find a neighbors house that has a little gray(box on the side. this box
should have a bell logo on it (the gay little bell in a circle).
2) apply pressure underneath the box andthe front should come right off. then,
strip one end off of the length of the telephone wire. then strip the ends of
all the different colored wires inside. these should be green, red, yellow and
black. attach an alligator clip to each of the wires. then clip the clips to
the same colors in the box. yellow to yellow, red to red and so on.
3) then run the wire across the street back to your house and then plug a
phone into the other end of the wire.
4) now you can dial out and receive the neighbors calls. great for tapping the
phones and then blackmailing them. you can also stop phreaking because any
outgoing calls will be charged to the neighbors! great eh?
all sysops may
-- © 1985 by dr. d-code & the pimp --
-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-::-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:-:
downloaded from the parking lot bbs
(415) 525-2716
10 megs
the pirates hollow 415-236-2371 ;(
*******************************************************************************
*********************
* the busy box *
* by *
* - black death - *
*********************
- disclaimer -
this file is intended for informational purposes only, and should not
be constructed. it should definately not be used on another person's fone
line without their consent.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ok, now you're really pissed.
the neighborhood lamer has gone one step too far this time.
it's time for the busy box.
1) what is the busy box?
the busy box is the simplest box ever created. it is attached to the
outside of the person's house, in their telephone box. it makes it so that
when any fone inside that house is picked up, no dial tone is heard, and
no calls can be received, or sent. this is good for lame bbs's as they tend
not to call out much, and it will remain undetected for a longer period of
time.
2) sounds great! what do i need?
a) one phone cord - 5 inches or so
b) alligator clips (optional)
3) wow! that's it? tell me more! how do i set it up?
well, take your phone cord, and remove the outer insulation. now you
should have 4 wires inside of it, red, green, black, and yellow. all you need
for most things are green and red, so save those. take either the black or the
yellow and strip about 3 inches with a wire stripper or a knife. now cut off 3
inches of uninsulated wire and, voila, you have a really thin wire. now, take
this wire, and go to your neighbors back yard. look for their power box, near
it should be a small grey (or beige, or some ugly color) box with the little
bell on it. open this up (it should come right off, if not, use a 7/16 hex
driver) now inside you should find four more pegs. look for the pegs with
a green or red wire coming out of them. if you have a beige box, hook it
up to make sure there is a dial tone. if there is, tie one end of your small
wire to the peg with the green wire coming out of it, the other end to the peg
with the red coming out of it. now use your beige box on it again, there should
be no dial tone, and pressing buttons should be ineffective. congratulations,
you've disabled their fone line.
something you might want to try is to make the small wire longer, and stuff
it in to the back of the box where there is a jungle of wires, so it will
be more unnoticable. the more discreet, the better.
- some pro's and con's -
pro's -
very effective - any idiot could build it - very inexpensive - easy to install
hard to detect source of problem
con's -
easy to detect that there -is- a problem (no dial tone when receiver is picked
up)
if anyone knows how to busy the line out, and leave a dialtone, please
let me know
this phile was writen/designed at the unholy temple by black death
if you have any problems building this - you're an idiot. sell your modem
and buy a life.
however, if ya just want to say "hi" or get the latest h/p filez, contact
me on my board
the unholy temple --- [408] 249-5405
or any of your favorite h/p boards.
have phun, and don't electrocute yourself.
********************************************************************************
-----------------------------------------------------------------
- the marshals of dynamic discord -
- present -
-----------------------------------------------------------------
- the chartreuse box (or any other obnoxious color) -
-----------------------------------------------------------------
- by: wonko the sane -
-----------------------------------------------------------------
intro
-----
the chartreuse box, so named because this is an obnoxious box
and chartreuse is an obnoxious color, is designed to take
advantage of the thousands of dollars ma bell pays to the electric
company each day. as you know, your telephone line is a constant
power source. the chart box is designed to allow you to tap that
power source for whatever sicko purposes you might have in mind.
parts
-----
[1]- 1 four prong to modular phone adapter (the rectangular beige
boxes with phone line jacks at one end and four prongs out
the other.)
[2]- 1 low power broad range rheostate.
[3]- some wire
[4]- a soldering iron
[5]- some electric tape
[6]- a 70 vlt. dc fuse (optional)
[7]- 1 spst switch
assembly
--------
plug the adapter into a phone line, and use a multitester to
note which posts are charged. use a magic marker to mark the
positive and negative poles. do this first.
take the adapter, and turn it upside down. you should
observe that the bottom fits into the top. use a pocketknife,
small screwdriver, battle axe etc. to remove the bottom. don't
break it.
detach the two wires not connected to charged poles, and
scrap em. detach the other two wires as well. take your
rheostat, and mount it on the outside of the box, drilling a small
hole in the box, to run wires through.
run wire from the charged connections from the line jack,
through the rheostat, to the charged poles. (see diagram).
positive line
\/ +---------+
---------..... : :
linejack+ :......#:rheostat :#........(fuse)....[=====]
---------.. : :
:... +---------+
:............#.........................[=====]
^
negative line
key: # - rheostate poles
. - wiring path
[=]- outside posts
attach the fuse somewhere in the line if you feel like it.
when the phone rings 90 volts of pulsing dc power get shot down
your line, and can really fuck up whatever you have the chart box
hooked up to. therefore, the fuse is a good idea.
you can also hook a switch up to the wiring, to give you more
control over when power starts to flow. once all the wiring is
complete, push the wires and the fuse into the casing, and reclose
it. then tape around the side of the box, to hold the wires that
come out to the rheostat down. i highly recommend that you mark
the charged posts with a marker, so you can easily identify them.
use
---
to use the chart box, hook it up to a phone line, and grab a
multitester or voltmeter. use the voltmeter to read off the
voltage from your chart box. you can get up to 12 volts (more if
you use a transformer) from the box, but you can use the rheostat
to calibrate the box for whatever voltage you need. once the
voltage is set, remove the box from the line, hook your device up
to the charged poles, and plug the box back in. if you're really
in a constructive mood, build a switch into the box. now leech ma
bell's precious energy to your hearts content.
footnote
--------
this device has other potential uses. one of the most
obvious, and least useful (at least to my view) is as a volume
control for your phone. maybe you have an aunt that talks real
loud!!!!! also, you can use this device to set up a feedback
loop to mess up someone else's phone line. finally, it may be
possible to use the chart box to tone down your connection, and
provide a little background noise, so that ess doesn't pick up on
your blue boxing. this is not a guaranteed method, but if you do
it just right, you can make the 2600 blast sneak by the ess
detection code.
naturally, the main purpose of the chart box is to leech ma
bell just like she leeches you.
hail discordia!
naturally, the main purpose of the chart box is to leech ma bell!
captured from:
the imagination factory bbs (513)-787-3777
24 hours - 7 days
|+ the hollow's alliance +
|+ tfile distribution center / mass megs +
|+ 415/236/2371 ror - alucard 415/236/2371 +
|+ dr. murdock sir death dark nite ratsnatcher pressed rat+
|+shawn-da-lay boy production inc. the electric pub : 415/236/4380+
|+++++ the gates of hell are open night and day; +++++
|+++ x smooth is the descent and easy is the way x +++
*******************************************************************************
**************************************
* how to build and use a cheesebox *
**************************************
a cheese box makes your home telephone into a payphone. the method shown
be
low is an easy way of doing it.
supplies needed
-------- ------
one line that has call forwarding.
one red box or recording of red box tones.
first you need to find out the number to the intercept operator in your
prefi
x. when you have the number to the intercept operator then forward all your
cal
ls to her. this makes your phone inoperable until a quarter is deposited i.e.
y
our phone is now a payphone. and to make calls off this line just get your red
box or boot up the cat's meow and insert your coins then call. also you must
be
ware, and not phreak off this line or they will assume it is a troubled
fortress
. then they will send someone out to stake out the fortress, and then well
i'll
just say it'll be pretty hairy!
later...
*******************************************************************************
\ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \
\[____________________________[_ \ /
\[ the chrome box [_ a portable self-contained device
\[ 14-jun-88 [_ / to manipulate traffic signals \
\[ outlaw telecommandos [_ / by remote control \
\[ modem free earth [_ / \
\[\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\[_ -=p*p=-
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
emergency vehicles in many cities are now using devices called optocoms.
optocoms are a system of sensors on traffic lights that detect a pattern
of flashes from vehicle-mounted strobe lights.
this flash pattern varies from city to city depending on the manufacturer
of the equipment used. often the sensors are installed only at major
intersections. nevertheless, the chrome box, which simulates these strobe
patterns can often be used to give your car the same priority as an
ambulance, paramedic van, firetruck or police car.
because of the varying patterns on different systems this phile will
outline a general procedure for making the chrome box.
decoding flash patterns:
first, you need to observe an emergency vehicle in action. you can wait
until you encounter one by chance, running out to see when you hear a siren,
or when you pull over in your car to let one pass by. you might wait
near a fire station for the next emergency to occur. or, if you are very
impatient, you can summon one by calling in a false alarm (not recommended in
areas with limited services - that could divert attention from a real
emergency). if the optocoms in your area are the kind with a pattern of single
flashes at a steady rhythm, you have merely to buy a strobe light at radio shack
& adjust the flash rate until you can induce a traffic light to change.
if the flash pattern is more complex, you can videotape the emergency vehicle &
then play back the tape in single-frame mode, counting the number of frames
between each flash. each video frame is 1/30 of a second, using this you can
calculate the time between flashes in the pattern. another way is to count the
number of flashes (or flash-groups) in one minute and use that to compute the
rate. counting video frames will give you a good idea of the spacing of the
flashes in a complex pattern. for really accurate information, call the fire
station & ask them, or write to the manufacturer for a service manual, which
will include a schematic diagram that you can use to build one. a good cover
story for this is that you are a consultant & one of your clients asked you to
evaluate optocom systems, or you could pose as a free-lance journalist writing
an article.
modifying the strobe light:
you may not have to modify the strobe at all. but if you need a faster
flash rate than your strobe allows, open it up & find the large capacitor
inside. capacitors are marked in microfarads, abbreviated as mf,mfd or ufd.
by replacing the capacitor with one of the same voltage-rating (usually
250 volts or more) and a smaller value in microfarads, you can increase the
flash rate. halving the microfarads doubles the rate.
the other component that can be changed is the potentiometer (the speed
control device with the knob on it). using a smaller value (measured in
ohms or kilohms, abbrevaited with the greek letter 'omega' or the letter k)
will speed up the strobe. there may also be a resistor (small cylinder with
several colored stripes on it, and wires coming out of each end). replacing
this resistor with one of smaller value will also speed up the strobe.
to generate a complex pattern, you will either have to design and build a
triggering circuit using ic chips, or rig up a mechanical device with a
multiple-contact rotary switch and a motor. it has been done.
to modify the strobe for mobile operation the simplest thing is to get a
110-volt inverter that will run off of a car battery by plugging into the
cigarette lighter & run the strobe from that. or, you can figure out (or find
in a hobby electronics magazine) a strobe circuit that will run from batteries.
battery-powered strobes may also be availble, either assembled or as kits.
stealth technology:
most light sensors and photocells are more sensitive in the infrared area of
the light spectrum. infrared (ir) is invisible to the human eye. putting an
infrared filter over the strobe light may allow the chrome box to operate in
traffic undetected by police or other observers. ir filters can be obtained from
military surplus sniperscope illuminators, or from optical supply houses like
dow-corning or edmunds scientific co.
using the chrome box:
mounted on your car, the chrome box can guarantee you green lights at major
intersections in cities that have optocoms. handheld chrome boxes may be used to
create gridlock by interfering with the normal flow of traffic. if you have
access to a window overlooking a traffic light, you can play pranks by switching
the signals at inappropriate moments, or you can plug the strobe into an exposed
outlet at a laundromat or gas station.
some decoded patterns:
torrance, california
standard large radio shack strobe lights are used. moderately fast rate.
* * * * * * * *
manhattan beach,ca
flash-pairs in a 4:1 ratio, at a rate of 2 flash-pairs per second.
* * * * * * * *
<------ 1 sec ----->
******************************************************************
* please add any new patterns or info you discover to this phile *
******************************************************************
thanks to those who posted observations on the south bay wwiv's.
*******************************************************************************
</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>
clear box plans
</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>
the clear box is a new device which has just been invented that can be
used throughout canada and rural united states. the clear box works on
"post pay" payphones (fortress fones). those are the payphones that don't
require payment until after the connection is established. you pick up the
fone, get a dial tone, dial your number, and then insert your money after
the person answers. if you dont deposit the money then you can not speak to
the person on the other end-because your mouth peice gets cut off, but, not
the ear piece. (obviously these phones are nice for free calls to weather or
time or other such recordings). all you must do is to go to your nearby
radio shack, or electronics store, and get a four-transistor amplifier and a
telephone suction cup induction pick-up. the induction pick-up would be
hooked up as it normally would to record a conversation, except that it
would be plugged into the out-put of the amplifier and a microphone would be
hooked to the input. so when the party that is being called answers, the
caller could speak through the little microphone instead. his voice then goes
through the amplifier and out the induction coil, and into the back of the
reciever where it would then be broadcast through the phone lines and the
other party would be able to hear the caller. the clear box thus 'clears up'
the problem of not being heard.
luckily, the line will not be cut-off after a certain amount of time
because it will wait forever for the coins to be put in. the biggest
advantage for all of us about this new clear box is the fact that this type
of payphone will most likely become very common. due to a few things: 1st,
it is a cheap way of getting the dtf, dial-tone-first service, 2nd, it
doesn't require any special equipment, (for the phonecompany) this payphone
will work on any phone line. usually a payphone line is different, but this
is a regular phone line and it is set up so the phone does all the charging,
not the company.
*******************************************************************************
the color box
-------------
msg left by: aluminum gerbil
well, what ye olde fuck. here are the schematics. i don't think you can
get busted just for knowing how to make comparaters, so i will just say not
to use them on anybody else's phone. if you do, i'm not responsible for
what goes down. i really don't care but that's how it goes...
ok... now that things are cool, i will give you the schematics...
but first... as everyone knows, text-schematics suck shit. that beith why
i have deemed it necessary for someone to create a standard electronic
character set. maybe i'll work on it but if someone comes up with one, all
hail the mighty characer set! my ideas for its construction are like having
standard characers represent electronic symbols like this...
'q' = left side of horizontal
resistor
'e' = right side of horizontal
resistor
'r' = horizontile connection
't' = verticle connection
'y' = horizontal capacitor, no
n-polarized
etc, etc, etc...
anyway, tis but a thought. it could be done using hrcg with dos toolkit as
everybody has that, or whatever, but the thing is to keep it standard for
everybody! if this catches on, maybe people will pass ess digital design
specs over the modulator...
so, here bieth the circuit... as someone once said,
"formatted for 80 columns... use your damn printer!"...
^ telephone line ^
47k 10k 1n4005
+--/\/\/--+--/\/\/--+-->\--+
50k __ (relay switch, n.o.)
+------------/\/\/---------+-------o o
^
0.1 uf
+---------\(-----o mic o
__ (relay switch, n.o.)
+-----------+ +-o o-+
-+- 6 volts
pnp, 2n3906 b --+-- o rem o
c -+- e
/ \--------+ "there behind the glass, there's
a real blade of grass! be
careful as you pass, move
along, move along..."
e, l & p.
npn, 2n3904 b
e -+- c
/ \----------+
relay coil
+-----!!!!!!-------------+
yeah, so the above bulletin was the schematic. now for an explanation. as
the theory of this thing was mentioned in a previous bulletin, i won't
concern myself with that. first a parts list...
resistors... 47k ohm, 10k ohm, 1k ohm.
potentiometers... 50k ohm trim pot
capacitors... 0.1 uf
semiconductors... pnp - 2n3906 transistor, npn - 2n3904 transistor,
1n4005 diode.
battery... one 6 volt or four 1.5 volt, a switch would be nice...
relay... i'm using a little blue 4.5 volt (i think) relay with
double pole, double throw contacts. it's in a dip
arrangement and i can't remember the radio shack number...
misc... various sizes of jacks for interfacing the tape recorder,
battery, telephone line, etc.
i built this thing four times on a bread board and twice on a pc board
before i got it to work to my satisfaction. i suggest you build it
** be on a bread board. last minute changes always kill me...
well, assemble the parts as shown in the schematic bulletin. a word about
the cryptic codes...
--\(-- is a polarized capacitor with the negative end pointing
right...
-->\-- is the diode with the cathode pointing right...
b is a transistor which is specified either pnp or npn.
-+- on npn, the arrow on the emitor points out. on pnp
c/ \e it points in. the leads are designated, 'b' for base,
'e' for emitor and 'c' for collector
2n3904 and 2n3906's are easy to come by. radio shack sells boxes of 15 for
under 5 bucks. they're fun to play with as they are good general purpose
transistors. i can't guarantee good results if you use other transistors, but
it would probably work.
1n4005 is the diode and can be changed for any diode that has approximately
the same ratings, 100 prv minimum, 1 amp, etc...
i recommend duracel batterys for the sole reason that they last longer than
regular carbon batterys (up to 35% longer!) but if you have a 115 ac outlet
nearby (you probably won't find one in a pedistal) you could use a 6 volt
power pack.
how to use a (color$) box...
as unstupifyingly iterated by:
the [604] gerbil
(so to speak...)
ok. now that you've made the (color$) box as mentioned above, you may want
to know what to do with it. many good phreaks may not want to bother reading
this message, as the uses are quite obvious. but this is what i think it
could be used for...
well, say you suspect your girlfriend of cheating on you... hmmm, that
actually is quite a frivilous use, but it is a possibility...
ok. the scenario is as thus: you've been dialing numbers in your local
exchange and you've found a couple computers but you don't know any pass-
words... what you'd do is call up cn/a and get the location of the number
you want to check out. then, you'd go to wherever the place is and check
out where the service enters the building. now here is where the sheep get
separated from the goats or the pirates from the phreaks, or whatever...
what you have to do is somehow get at the two wires making up the line. you
could break in, or you could strip the wires on the pole, or if there is a
ppit there. anyway, you get some bare wire and attach the box across these
wires. then, you put your tape in and press play & record, turn your box on
and forget about for a couple days. now, several things might happen in the
next few days. one - someone might find the box and call the phone cops.
two - the dude might call out on the line in which case, the numbers will be
recorded on the tape. three - the guy might get incomming calls which will
be recorded. four - the batterys might wear out. five - the world might
blow up...
so, you get your box back and you see what's on the tape. if it's a
computer, then you play the tones back into your demodulator and see what
is going on. you will get all the passwords, access parameters and
everything that went on the line. sound interresting? but yes, it is!
hmmm, did i remember to say what the four pairs of wires coming out of my
box are? anyway, one is the battery, one is for the line, which you are
taping into, one goes to the microphone of the tape recorder and the last
pair goes to the tape recorder's remote jack.
well, that beith about all for your lesson on how to (color$) box your
way into passwords and such... if you've got questions, just post them and
the worst that could happen is that i won't bother answering them and you'll
look stupid, but that wouldn't be nice.
fear not, i shall not forsake thee! please expect more wondrous circuit
designs in the future for other fun ttbyist...
sorry about the fucked up transmission. again, 'tis fairly clear. just
post if you have questions...
[ ye olde aluminum gerbul ]
*******************************************************************************
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@ @
@ =->the copper<-= @
@ =->box<-= @
@ @
@ concieved by @
@ the cypher @
@ [001010]->[1101101] @
@ @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
disclaimer (i know...):
this file is for informational purposes only. no use of this technique
is recommended for one of many reasons: 1) it makes other phreaks & hacks
very upset, 2) it makes the telco very upset, and you could be put away for
a long time if you dont know what youre doing. telco employees could learn
something from the copper box. well, anyway, off we go....
purpose:
this box can destroy a phone company, no matter how big. you could bring
at&t down to their knees! only to be used by the most irate of phracks,
it is intended for informational purposes only.
history:
this is really not a box, but if you consider a cheese box a box, then it
is. it was first concieved back in 1986 when a phriend and i came up with
the idea while using a copper-coloured fone, hence, a copper box.
instructions:
you must obtain [1] extender, or phone company port, like an mci or sprint
access number. [2] a hell of a lot of nerve, and vendetta towards the phone
company (phriend gets busted, rates increase, etc.) [3] a computer & modem
capable of autodialing [tone.]
dial the number of the l/d service, then enter the code. dial the number of
the service again, through the outdial number you are still on, enter code,
then dial again and again. you should hear, after a while (it will take a
long time for big companies) a slight high-pitched, unstable tone, that grows
louder and louder w/every dial. once it gets so loud that it refuses to let
in any more sounds, you have just completed the first cycle of the copper box.
leave line off-hook for about 10 minutes or until the tone seems to calm
down, or stop completely. then, dial again and repeat over and over again
until when you dial a last time, it [the port] doesnt answer. you have just
killed a telephone company, extender, etc.
theory of operation:
what happens is that when the tone begins to rise, it is a result of cross-
talk feedback. the more you dial, the more it grows. in systems like these,
the small, sensitive equipment such as amplifiers, etc. begin to burn out as
a result of the feedback, damaging the equipment, and possibly starting a fire
at the location of the equipment.
downloaded from p-80 systems....
how to construct a purple box.
------------------------------
the purple box is wksimple to construct. it takes only six components
and a pc board if you want. the purple box is a telephone hold button. it
will allow you to switch phones very easily.
a red led indicates when a party is on hold and is automatically
extinguished when either party releases the line.
to install your purple box, remove the telephone case and kkqthe red
and green wires. from the green wire, make a connection to l1 and from the
red wire a connection to l2.
to test the circuit, call a friend and then while pressing the push
button, hang up the phone. as soon as the phone is on the hook, you may let
go of the push button.
parts:
d1 = light emitting diode (led)
d2 = 1n4003 diode
r1 = 820 ohm 1/2 watt
r2 = 1k ohm 1/2 watt
s1 = n.o. push button s1
scr1 = c106b1 ____
+--o o---+----r1----+
g
+--------led--r2---+-------a--+--c--d2---+
l1
i5---/ l2
to green to red
the scr is a three prong ic. the a,g, and c tell you what pins to use. the
"g" pin is the one on the left if you look at the numbers.
have phun,
"!flash
*******************************************************************************
building a red box
by j.r."bob" dobbs
essentially,the red box is a device used to fool the phone company
into thinking you are depositing coins into a payphone. every time you
drop a coin into a payphone, the phone signals the type of coin inserted
with one or more bursts of a combination of 1700hz and 2200hz. the tone
bursts are coded as follows:
nickel:one 60 millisecond pulse
dime :two 60 millisecond pulses separated by 60 milliseconds
quarter:five 35 millisecond pulses separated by 35 milliseconds
how to use it
-------------
operation is simple. simply dial a long distance number (some areas
require you to stick in a genuine nickel first), wait for the acts
computer to demand your cash, and press the "deposit" button on the red
box for each coin you want to simulate. the coin signals are coupled
from the red box into the phone with a small speaker held to the
mouthpiece. for local calls, either you must first deposit a genuine
nickel before "simulating" more coins or place your call through the
operator with 0 + 7d. use some care when the operator is on the
line--sometimes they catch on to your beeper ploy.
circuit operation
-----------------
each time the pushbutton is pressed, it triggers half of ic1,
configured as a monostable multivibrator to energize the rest of the
circuit for a length of time determined by the setting of the coin
selector switch. this in turn starts the other half of ic1, configured
as an astable multivibrator, pulsing on and off at regular intervals at
a rate determined by the 50k pot between pins 12 and 13. the output of
the astable thus alternately powers of ic2, configured as a square wave
oscillator, providing the required 1700hz and 2200hz to the op amp which
acts as a buffer to drive the speaker.
construction
------------
assemble the circuit as you wish. component placement is not
critical. i found the easiest method was to use point-to-point wiring
on a "universal" pc grid board with solder ringed holes. use sockets if
you aren't a whiz with a soldering iron. be sure to leave easy access
to the potentiometers for alignment.
alignment and testing
---------------------
for alignment, a frequency counter and tiggered sweep oscilloscope
are extremely handy (but not absolutely necessary.)
install a temporary jumper from +9v supply to pin 14 of ic2 and
temporarily disconnect the 0.01uf capacitors from pins 5 and 9 of ic2.
power up the circuit. measuring the output from pin 5 of ic2 with the
frequency counter, adjust the 20k pot between pins 1 and 6 for an output
of 1700hz. now adjust the 20k pot between pins 8 and 13 for an output
of 2200hz from pin 9 of ic2. remove the temporary jumper and re-attach
the capacitors to pins 5 and 9. (note: if no frequency counter is
available, the outputs can be adjusted by ear one at a time by
zero-beating the output tone with a computer generated tone of known
precision.)
next, temporarily disconnect the wire between pins 5 and 10 of ic1.
set coin selector switch in the "n" (nickel) position. with the
oscilloscope measuring the output from pin 9 of ic1, adjust the 50k pot
between pins 12 and 13 of ic1 for output pulses of 60 millisecond
duration. reconnect the wire between pins 5 and 10. (note: if no scope
is available, adjust the pulse rate by ear using computer generated
tones for comparison.)
the remaining adjustments are made by ear.
leave the selector switch in the "n" position. adjust the 50k pot
labelled "dime" for a quick double beep each time the pushbutton is
pressed.
finally, set the selector to "quarter". adjust the 50k pot labelled
"quarter" until exactly 5 very quick beeps are heard for each button
press. don't worry if the quarter beeps sound shorter and faster than
the nickel and dime ones. they should be.
conclusion
----------
if all went well to this point, your red box should be completely
aligned and functional. a final test should now be conducted from a
payphone using the datl (dial access test line) coin test. dial
09591230 and follow the computer instructions using the red box at the
proper prompts. the computer should correctly identify all coins
"simulated" and flag any anomalies. with a little discretion, your red
box should bring you many years of use. remember, there's no such thing
as spare change.!
parts list for red box
----------------------
semiconductors
--------------
(2)556 dual timer
(1)741 op amp
(1)1n914 switching diode
resistors
---------
(6)10k (1)4.7k
(2)100k
(4)50k pc mount potentiometer
(2)20k multi-turn potentiometer
capacitors
----------
(10)0.01uf (1)1.0uf
(2)10.0uf electrolytic
miscellaneous
-------------
(2)14 pin dip socket
(1)8 pin dip socket
(1)3-position rotary switch
(1)momentary push-button switch(normally open)
(1)spst toggle switch
(1)speaker or telephone earpiece circuit board
box
mounting hardware
9v battery clip
schematic drawing
-----------------
/
zdds1y ddbdddddddddbddddddddbddddddddbddddddddddddddddbddddddddddddd%
+9v r1 r2 ] ] ] ]
cdddc1dddd ] r3 ] ]
] ] zddd cddddbdc2d@q s3 @n ]
o zdddaddddadddaddd% ] r5 ] @d ] ]
od ] 6 4 14 ] r4 ] ] ] cdd% ]
s2 o zd5 13cdddd g ] cddd% ] ] ]
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] r9<dy ]
g -d10 (ic1556) 8cd% r6<d% ] r8<ddy ] ]
] ] ] ] ] ] ] ] ]
zdddd9 12cdaddeddy cdd% ] ] ]
] ] 3 11 7 2 1 ] c3 ] ] ] ] ]
] -dbddbdddbddbddbdy ] r7<dy ] ] ]
] ] ] ] -dd g ] ] ] ]
] c4 c5 ] cddddddddddddddddaddddddadddddddy ]
] ] ] ] c6 ]
] ] ] ] ] ]
] g g g g ]
] ]
-ddbdddddbddddddd% ]
r11 ] r12 zddd% ]
zdd% ] ] ] ] v ]
v ] ] zddedd% cddddaddr13dd% ]
zdddr10dadd ] ] ] ] ] ]
] zdaddaddaddaddddadddd% ] ]
] ] 1 4 14 10 13 ] ] ]
] ] 8cddbdddd ]
cddddddbd6 ] ] c12 ]
] ] ] 12cddy ] ]
] -d2 ic2 556 ] ] ]
c7 ] ] g ]
] zdd3 11cddddd% ]
] ] ] 7 5 9 ] ] ]
g c8 -ddddbdddbdddbdddddddy c11 ]
] ] c9 c10 ] ]
] ] ] ] g ]
g ] -dbdy ]
g ] ]
] zdddddddddddddddddbddddddddddddddy
] ] ]
] r14 ]
] ] ]\ ]
] ] ] \ ]
cddddddddddddeddddddddddd]3 \]
] ] ] 7 \
c13 r15 ]ic3 \
] ] ]741 6/dddddd%
] ] ] 4 / ]
] ] ] / ]
g g zdd2 / ] ]
] ]/ ] ]
] g ]
] ]
-dddddddddddddddddd
c14
]
speaker
]
g
schematic part variables list.
------------------------------
resistors
---------
r1 - 10k r2 - 10k r3 -4.7k r4 - 10k r5 - 10k r6 - 50k
r7 - 50k r8 - 50k r9 - 50k r10- 20k r11- 10k r12- 10k
r13- 20k r14-100k r15-100k
capacitors
----------
c1 - 0.01uf c2 - 1n914 switching diode c3 - 1.0uf c4 - 0.01uf
c5 - 0.01uf c6 - 10uf c7 - 0.01uf c8 - 0.01uf c9 - 0.01uf
c10 - 0.01uf c11 - 0.01uf c12 - 0.01uf c13 - 0.01uf c14 - 10uf
switches
--------
s1 - spst toggle
s2 - momentary push button n.o. labeled "deposit"
s3 - 3-position rotary switch
miscellaneous
-------------
g - ground
@q - label "quarter"
@d - label "dime"
@n - label "nickle"
typed up by sine wave from an article which originally appeared in 2600
magazine. the original contained several mistakes in the schematic
drawing which i've corrected. hope this information enlightens you to
new and exciting possibilities via your local phone booth.
the unholy temple -=>408-249-5405<=-
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