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Icom IC- 751 Mods


NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
IC751.5
The second malfunction was failure of the display digits etc to appear
until a warm-up time of perhaps 10 minutes or more (after which you must
power-down up to generate a new reset-pulse). It also turned out to
be an open 10uf electrolytic on the -5volt line which supplies IC-1 IC-2
on the Display Unit Board. This board attaches to the front assembly near
the display digits...parallel to the floor. The front assembly DOES unscrew
with 4 screws and move forward an inch or two, but this is actually not
necessary. The board has a 3-position connector attaching, but only the two
outside ones have wires....red is 13.8v outside ones have wires....red is
13.8v dc input, and purple is -5v output.

The purple (-5v) wire, but rather is
on the opposite side of the inductor (L1) which does connect to the
purple wire. A -5v zener-to-ground appears here, and the culprit 10uf is
directly in parallel across the zener. I didn't have a 10uf tantulum handy
but a 39uf did the job. I also arbitrarily shunted C-17 (easily visible)
with a 33uf tantulum, and C-25 which is another 10uf (easily visible) was
shunted with a 2.2uf tantulum. (Tack-soldered on foil-side).

I didn't have a 10uf tantulum handy but a 39uf did the job. I also arbitrarily
shunted C-17 (easily visible) with a 33uf tantulum, and C-25 which is another
10uf (easily visible) was shunted with a 2.2uf tantulum.
(Tack-soldered on foil-side).

With such a trend developing...it would appear that if you are experiencing
other kinds of malfunctions, open electrolytics might be under suspicion....
it should not be necessary to remove them in most cases...just tack-solder
a tantulum in parallel on the foil-side.

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