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Chocolate Sauce - Grim's guide to bondage
All stories on this web site are purely FICTIONAL. The people depicted within these stories only exist in someone's IMAGINATION. Any resemblence between anyone depicted in these stories and any real person, living or dead, is an incredible COINCIDENCE too bizarre to be believed. If you think that you or someone you know is depicted in one of these stories it's only because you're a twisted perverted little fucker who sees conspiracies and plots where none exist. You probably suspect that your own MOTHER had sex with ALIENS and COWS and stuff. Well, she didn't. It's all in your head. Now take your tranquilizers and RELAX.
Greetings, 'grim' here
Today on The Bondage Workshop, 'Chocolate Sauce' or 'Adapting Existing
Vanilla Furniture [and areas] for Delightfully Evil Purposes'. These
suggestions do not involve significant expense, heavy construction or an
extraordinary use of tools, are available to most people willing to spend
a wee bit of time preparing for their fun, and are stronger and safer than
most improvised arrangements. Many may be quite obvious, but I think some
people might benefit from these ideas. As always, I have done what I may
to suggest safety, it is up to the individual to construct, test, and use
particular ideas with appropriate care. If others have more notions on
adapting vanilla furniture, I would be happy to hear of them.
Many of us might not have the resources to equip a full dungeon, still,
rather amazing things may be done with modifications to existing furniture
easily found in the home, second-hand shops, sales, and the like. As I
have received several requests for same, I have paid special attention to
those modifications and uses that do not scream 'Kink!' to any casual
examination, but are still useful and fun to play with. While the majority
of these ideas use the furniture for partial or complete support, do not
forget the option of simply securing hir wrists to the furniture while sie
kneels at your feet or takes another convenient position.
Beds:
Some of us have strongly constructed four-poster canopy beds which are
perfect for attaching almost anything to anyone, but even here, a bit of
forethought will make things easier. Cut a piece of wide climbing webbing
slightly longer than the circumference of the bedpost, punch or melt two
holes where the webbing overlaps, thread a carabiner or heavy spring-clip
through the holes, and you have a strong, easily removable, non-damaging
attachment point for chain or rope. Similar things may be done with
strongly mounted headboards or other parts of the bed, simply use enough
webbing to go around the object. Consider the possibility of attaching the
webbing high up on the bedposts for that 'stretching' feeling, with a safe
working load measured in thousands of pounds, the bed will fail long
before the tie might. Similar 'temporary' tie points may be made on other
furniture one does not wish to permanently modify.
Particularly nice for making permanent tie-down or chain attachment points
on any sort of furniture, 'ringbolts' are a combination of a solid ring
and an eyebolt, often found in the larger hardware stores. If you cannot
find them ready-made, pry open an eyebolt and insert the ring yourself,
then close the eyebolt again. The ring allows for the passage of rope or
chain without the tangling and friction problems of an eyebolt alone. Use
one at each corner of any bed frame, where they cannot be easily seen and
do not get in the way. If you are truly worried about discretion, mount
the rings on the inside of the frame, and run ropes or chains underneath
the frame to attach to the ring. Adding one each in the center of the
sides of the bed, and the center of the head and foot boards yield more
possibilities for positions and convenience in tying.
Futon frames [particularly the adjustable sort]:
I recently had a opportunity to try some ideas with one of these, a sofa
design that would also lie flat with a bit of a pull. Little modification
was needed, as the separate slats lend themselves nicely to webbing ties
as above. Once you have secured someone bent over the back of one of
these, the entire unit can be moved to the flat position with them in
place, two heights without re-securing. Some seated, kneeling, and
reclining postures were obvious as well, particularly ones with ties out
in four directions with the bottom centered on the futon, perhaps with a
cushion or two added to assist in holding position.
Mattresses:
At times, one does what one must, but plain mattresses are not much use
without some preparation. You might try sewing some strong loops to the
outer corners, but I have found that a pocket on each corner formed by
rope loops and connected both by an X on the bottom of the mattress and to
each other around the edge of the mattress serves well, especially if the
mattress is a heavy one. The tighter the cross ropes, the less the
corners of the mattress will raise in the air upon pulling. If you can
make one, a light metal or wooden X-frame along the same area will bend
even less, but this is less transportable. The pocket loops above are the
only system I have found consistently useful in hotels.
Chairs:
Are the least used of all common furniture, and I cannot understand why,
for a chair is designed to give adequate support to the body for extended
periods, and a properly selected wooden armchair fairly begs for ropes and
such to be wrapped through the arms and around the legs. On a wooden
chair, try sitting with the feet drawn up and pushed together, while the
knees are attached near the wrists to the chair arms. Proper posture may
be encouraged by a rope passing through the top of the chair back, up
under the arm, and back down over the same shoulder on each side,
obviously nothing should go around the neck for safety reasons. A
standing position which starts with hir standing facing the front of the
chair, bending forward, and aligning hir arms to the arms of the chair
works well and kneeling positions on the chair seat both forward and
facing backwards are also effective.
Armless rolling office chairs can be interesting with hir sitting facing
the chair back, wrists fastened to a rope going round the support column
underneath the chair seat and hir feet unsecured. With several floggers
and top-bottom pairs one could sponsor races....
My personal favorites among the chairs I have used are wood-framed
armchairs with open wooden arms and legs, and thick cushions on the chair
seat and back. Many places to tie, comfortable for extended use, and the
thick cushions render less usual positions [lying with hir back on the seat
with arms secured to the chair arms and legs tied to the top of the
chair back] considerably more comfortable for most bottoms I have known.
The older overstuffed armchairs are best for bending someone over the
back or the arms and securing them to ringbolts set below the level of the
chair cushions. This can be done quickly, and is wonderful either for
those impromptu spankings or a quiet evening before the fire. Comfort and
utility combined.
Stools:
Strength and stability of a stool are important considerations for bondage
use. Short leg length, thick legs and strong joints are things to look
for, and the best stools often resemble square end tables. Ringbolts work
well here, but simply wrapping rope around a leg will work as well. Soft
cotton rope tends to harm the wood finish less than most synthetics, and
is usually more comfortable on skin. Sitting, kneeling on a pad, belly up
and belly down positions are all classics to be tried, and I did know one
woman who could comfortably hold a full lotus position for an hour or
more if properly encouraged....
Tables:
The end tables previously referred to are good, and the bondage
possibilities of the average coffee table often go unnoticed. Ties just
above the elbows and knees secured to the ends of a coffee table are quite
nice. If the bottom is light and the table strong, dining room or other
large tables are wonderful for protracted dinner scenes when you need that
special centerpiece for entertaining. The option of a intimate dinner by
candlelight should be obvious, but do ensure that the candles themselves
cannot fall, as there is a profound safety difference between a few
droplets of wax and a half-ounce or more of molten flaming candle-tip.
An entirely different idea occurred to me some time ago while purchasing a
large table with a split in the center for adding an additional place
setting for more guests. The extra boards provided were useful for dining,
but I acquired two additional boards of the same size, cut a circular hole
between them and secured my bottom's neck carefully in the resulting hole
in the center of the table. [It is *most* important to ensure that the
bottom cannot possibly fall off of hir sitting or kneeling support
*before* doing this.] We then ate dinner, with me feeding a few bits of
the manicotti I was eating into her helpless mouth [she rather detested
Italian food, but I did caution her to be good that evening].
Tasty.
Ottomans-hassocks-footstools:
Who can forget the 'ottomans' used in Roissy? Most I have tried have a
padded top over a wooden frame, and the usual ringbolts work very nicely
for all such I have seen. Sitting, kneeling on top, kneeling beside, and
bent over positions are particularly fun, while elbows and knees may be
tied with the bottom on hir back or front for rather longish periods.
Gives new meaning to the concept of comfortable footstool....
Hammocks:
The variety with a wooden bar built into each end to spread the hammock
cords may easily be adapted with a few ropes to spread other things, while
the sort of hammock that does not possess these bars lends itself nicely
to cocooning around a reclining form. One rope may be sewn through both
edges of the hammock to secure the opening, and may be quickly pulled out
if a speedy release is necessary.
The open nature of the hammock netting allows for clothespins or clamps to
be used on all sides of the bound person, as well as flogging, tickling,
ice, vibrators and other types of sport. Use an elastic cord or two for
attaching nipple clamps to something outside the hammock, then swing the
hammock gently or encourage the bottom do so with hir own movements.
Penetration is also possible if the netting is open enough and the height
is appropriate.
A soft hammock might also be used as a capture net in a chasing game, or
both ends may be secured to the same point overhead to restrain someone
quite nicely in a semi-folded position [ensure sie can breathe easily].
Closets:
Closets? Certainly, one need not be prejudiced :-). Walk-in closets are
wonderful places for vertical bondage scenes, and often have useful hooks
and bars in place that may be used or added to depending on their
strength. There is a brief scene in the Mel Brooks picture "High Anxiety"
using a closet. Of course one never leaves a bound individual alone, but
the *threat* of a closed door is ever there. Think of the reactions one
could get by mentioning 'going back into the closet tonight' as a *good*
thing, and look to your own.
Bathrooms:
Claw-footed Victorian tubs and very cold water are perfect, but do be
careful around the hard surfaces of a bathroom, it is far too easy to
injure a helpless person. Shower curtain supports are rarely strong enough
for actual restraint, but may provide a tie more symbolic in nature as one
is washing up afterwards, and the temperature of the stream of water may
be adjusted to taste.
::ObQuiteSilly::
"I always did have this vague ambition to be known for hardware consulting."
P.S. A sincere 'thank you' to all who graciously responded to my recent
question regarding 'Is there anyone interested in this sort of technical
material', I am now quite reassured, and I do hope that my return mail was
received. Polite inquiries and suggestions always accepted, now and in
future.
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a missive from-
"That grim, fierce, dominant fellow, grrr ... grr ... grin"
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