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Travelogue on Thailand trip w/accounting
Came back with 100 USD in travelers checks
80 USD in cash
Left with 2000 USD in travelers checks
300 USD in cash
Spent thus USD 1900.00 Travelers
USD 220.00 Cash
Cash subtotal USD 2120.00
Credit card bills:
Hibiscus Hotel/Paris 330 FRF USD 65.96 @5.00303
Venezia Hotel/Roma 103000 ITL USD 91.68 @1123.47
Malaysia Hotel/BKK 2910 THB USD 117.65 @24.7343
Aerostar/BKK-Flights 3090 THB USD 124.94 @24.7318
MH HKT-LGK-Flight 970 THB USD 39.09 @24.8145
Sahid Garden/JOG 78989 IDR USD 42.06 @1878.00
Duta Guest House/JOG 59700 IDR USD 31.84 @1875.00
Taman Agung/DPS 162205 IDR USD 86.59 @1873.25
US LAX-SFO-Flight USD 168.00
Credit card subtotal 767.81
Total 2887.81
Average per month (3 months): 962.60
Average per day... 31.64
I spent roughly 1000 in three weeks in Europe, and 1900 in 9
weeks in Thailand and Indonesia, which included the flights Bangkok
to Ko Samui to Phuket to Langkawi. Basic airline ticket was 1700
USD, so the average person is probably looking at about 5,000 for
the trip I just did, maybe a bit less if the forego an expensive
hotel here and there!
Around the World
October 1 to December 25, 1991
12 Weeks
Flights
San Francisco to Lisbon on TWA
Rome to Bangkok on Garuda (10 hours)
Bangkok to Ko Samui on Bangkok Airways
Ko Samui to Phuket on Bangkok Airways
Phuket to Langkawi on Malaysian Airlines
Singapore to Jogyakarta on Garuda
Jogya to Bali on Garuda
Bali to Los Angeles on Garuda (19 hours!)
Los Angeles to San Francisco on USAir
Average Exchange Rates
PTE 127.03 = USD 1 Portugal
FRF 4.83 = USD 1 France
ITL 1123.47 = USD 1 Italy
THB 24.62 = USD 1 Thailand
MYR 2.63 = USD 1 Malaysia
SGD 1.75 = USD 1 Singapore
IDR 1881.42 = USD 1 Indonesia
The hotels:
Lisbon: Residencia Mucaba
Av. da Liberdade, 53, 2nd Floor
PTS 4200, USD 33.06
Double with bath
Otherwise know as Residencia do sul. Not cheap, not special. Many other
places along this main street, near the Rossio Station, so shop around.
Note that no serious trains leave from this "central" train station. Trains
to Spain, France and distant internal points in Portugal leave from Santo
Apolonia Station, about 2 km along the wharf from "centrally located"
Rossio Station. There are plenty of street cars and buses to Santo Apolonia
Station, but give yourself plenty of time to get there. All the
accommodation is near Rossio, as are the best cafes, restaurants and night
spots.
Porto: Pensao Portuguesa
Trav. Coronel Pacheco, 11
PTS 1400, USD 11.02
Single, bath down the hall
Great place, about a kilometer from the Sao Bento train station, up the
hill behind the Tourist Office. Nice view, friendly staff, and a couple of
super cheap restaurants just around the corner. Highly recommended! Carlos,
the manager, speaks fleunt English and is very helpful with tips on what to
see and how to get there. All in all, Porto is a great place to spend some
time. The people are friendly everywhere, while prices are much better than
in Lisbon. And there is always the party crowd on the wharf in front of the
Port Wine factories on the south bank of the river. Hang around here a few
days and you will most certainly be invited to some local happening.
Train: Porto to Hendaye, France
PTS 1942, USD 15.28
Couchette
There is a train directly from Porto to Paris, no change necessary. Get
off at Hendaye, just on the French side of the Spanish frontier, if you
want to go to Italy, as there is a trough train from here to Rome. If you
go via Madrid, you must change train stations in Madrid, baggage and all,
and then change again on the French frontier.
Note that there is a new Eurail Pass, called the Flexipass. It is good
for a number of days within a specified period, for example for 5 days
within a 15 day period. You can thus stay for a number of days in one place
without losing time on the pass, but the best part about it is that many
train conductors in southern Europe do not tick off the days. You just wave
the big Eurail logo at them, and many times they just walk on by,
especially on local trains. No problem!
Toulouse: Hotel Splendid
13, rue Caffarelli
FRF 80, USD 16.56
Single, bath down the hall
Why Toulouse? Always wanted to see this city, but it is not interesting
at all. The only rooms even close to being cheap are in the center of the
red light district near the train station, but they are always full of
students (big University town). Hotel Splendid is recommended exclusively
because of the super friendly English speaking owners. Good for a night or
two, but what is there to do in Toulouse anyway? Nothing. The cheapest
place to eat I could find is a Vietnamese place called A. Dong Restaurant,
just near the hotel. Cafe au lait in France is 3 US per cup!!!
Aix-en-Provence: Hotel Paul
10, Ave Pasteur
FRF 162, USD 33.54
Double with super nice bathroom
Another big French university town. There is more to do here, but again
the prices, wow! Again all the cheapies are completely full of students,
especially in October when the schools re-open. If you get sick looking at
dinner prices on those prix fixes menus, try Restaurant le Carillon, 10,
rue Portalis.
Paris: Hibiscus Hotel
66, rue de Malte
FRF 330, USD 68.32
Double with ALL amenities
I thought I would be smart and run up to the Thai Consulate in Paris to
get a visa. Wrong! There were five major international conferences going on
in town, including the gigantic European Auto Show. I arrived late in the
day, and spent six hours looking around for a room at every place I know or
could find. Around midnight, as the rain started to fall, I was seriously
considering a night in a train station and was about to go for it when I
ran across a free room in this place. Nice place and friendly staff, but
way out of the budget. To make matters even more miserable, the Thai
Consulate in Paris will not deliver a visa in under 48 hours, even with a
rush on it. Go immediately to the train station!
Train: Paris to Rome
FRF 80, USD 16.56
Couchette
First conductor out of six to tick the Eurail Pass!
Rome: Hotel Venezia
Via Varese, 18
ITL 103,000, USD 91.68
Super luxurious single
Almost 100 US, so not a budget hotel. Used to be the bargain place in
Rome for the Let's Go Europe crowd, but has moved very upscale now. I have
recommended it a number of times and wanted to see it again, but no more as
it is now much too expensive. The single rooms on the fifth floor are
superb though.
Albergo Kennedy
Via Filippo Turati, 62
ITL 35,000, USD 31.15
Single, bath down the hall
The bottom end of the Roman pensione circuit is now on the left side of
the station as you arrive, but watch out for those damn gypsies! The
youngest children are getting very adept now at picking pockets, even money
belts. Don't let them stand anywhere near you, especially if there are many
of them together.
Plane: Rome to Bangkok
Garuda Indonesia
Italian bus tourists flying overnight to Thailand on the national
carrier of Indonesia. Confusing enough for them already, without the
American Army/Chuck Norris film on the video screen, and without the crew
speaking only English. Welcome to Asia! Or better, Selamat datang ke Muang
Thai! A very amusing flight.
The taxis at the airport in Bangkok are finally organized. Now you buy
a ticket, as at every other Asian airport, and get in the first cab to
enter the compound. No more haggling with every pirate cabbie stuck at the
airport until he finds a fare back into town. Price is higher, at 300 baht,
but it is safer as there is less chance of being ripped off later. You can
still walk a few meters out to the side of the freeway if you want, though
the Airport Police take a dim view of this.
Bangkok: Malaysia Hotel
54 Soi Ngamduplee
THB 414, USD 16.81
Double, bath, aircon, girls
Flights from the States arrive Bangkok late at night, so often clients
want a hotel room for one night upon arrival. This hotel is open 24 hours,
has a 24 hour restaurant (where the food is actually very good), and every
cabbie in Thailand knows where it is, so I have been using it for a number
of years. Moreover, the owner, Manit, is one of the more pleasant Thai
hotel owners I have met. The only slight downside to the place is the
girls. "Thailand is the only country where men are hassled more than
women", laughingly told me a Brit woman once, and I'm afraid it is true
here (this was a hot-spot for American GIs on R and R during the Vietnam
War and the bargirls forget not!). There are many places with lower prices,
but they are on a first come first serve basis and most close by 10pm, few
of them have telephones let alone fax machines, and if they do have the
latter, they sell rooms at double the price. An aircon room with a pool
outside located near a freeway exit (easiest access in Bangkok I think)
open 24 hours with a good owner and a good fax machine, I have got to
recommend it for short stays, definitely.
Of all the hotels I visited in Bangkok this year, the only other to
stick out in my mind is M.P. Villa, just next to Jim Thompson's house. Some
of the rooms have a view onto this house, and the location is good and
quiet. Prices start at 600 baht for a single or double. The guest houses on
Khao San Road are okay, and cheap, but what a dive neighborhood! Crowded,
very noisy because of the traffic, and rather dirty, it is not a place I
would want to stay for more than a night or two. But then Bangkok itself is
not a place to spend any serious time, unless you have business to do at a
Consulate or airline office.
Ko Samet: Bungalow Tubtim
THB 70, USD 2.84
Bamboo hut, bath down the path
The view off the terrace of the restaurant here is one of the best I
think, as far as the picture perfect tropical paradise goes. Very friendly
staff. The grounds at this complex are clean too, with no muck laying
about.
Note the ease of getting here. From the Eastern Bus Station in Bangkok
(look for the "Ban Phe" window), it is a three hour drive directly to the
port at Ban Phe, and a simple 30 to 45 minute ride on a boat out to the
island itself, so if you leave Bangkok early you can be on the beach well
before 2pm. The boats only dock at certain places, so it is best to get off
at the first stop, the main pier called Na Dan, and then take a "taxi"
(you'll figure it out) to Tubtim.
There is a hydrofoil service from Pattaya, on the mainland just to the
north of Ko Samet, to Ko Samui. I have never used it, and do not know the
price, but if you are on Ko Samet or any of the islands further to the east
of here (Ko Chang, for example, near the Cambodian frontier), it is most
convient to use this service as you can avoid a return trip to Bangkok.
Many of the travel agencies along here sell bus-hydrofoil conjunction
tickets.
Ko Samui: Sunset Song Bungalow
Big Buddha Beach
THB 100, USD 4.06
Double with bath
The best value for money place I stayed in during this trip. A big
comfortable double bed, attached fresh water shower, large porch with table
and chairs, very friendly staff and very good cooks. The owners are school
teachers who also live here. Prices must certainly be higher during the
high season. The place was so nice that I was already surprised at 100 baht
in the low season! There is an amusing German guy down the road who rents
scooters. The airport is near, and one can hear the Bangkok Airways
prop-planes taking off and landing during the daytime, but it is not
important one way or another. Down the road in the other direction is a
small village called Ban Bo Phut. The ferry to Ko Pha Ngan leaves from
here, and you can while away the time waiting for it in the Samui Magic
Cafe, run by a very nice woman from Bangkok, Boulun. The beach is good for
swimming, as there are no waves, but there is quite a bit of wind during
some months. No problem when I was there in late October.
Phuket: Sutham Thumthorng
74/4 M.3 Kamala Bay
THB 150, USD 6.09
Double, bath
Just a guy standing in the road who asked me if I was looking for a
room. Actually, yes, let's have a look! I had the back room in his house,
but he has two other rooms at 150, and three super nice rooms across the
road for 300 per night, all with private bath. He also owns a two bedroom
house which will hold four or more people at 1000 per night, with small
kitchen, utensils included, dining room, porch, everything, and has another
place down the road at 500 baht which he calls a "condo" and which will
also hold four people. In fact, the guy seems to have a line on just about
every house in the village, you name your price range! Note however that
while Kamala Bay is a good place for swimming, as the beach is shallow for
a couple hundred meters, it is difficult to get to Patong, the center of
Phuket night life, because the road between Kamala and Patong is not yet
sealed. The songthaews (public transport) from Phuket town go north via
Surin, then south to Kamala, and there is in fact no public transport
between Kamala and Patong. I did the trip at night once on a motorcycle,
but do not recommend it! What a ride!
Do not be fooled by the taxi drivers at the Phuket airport! You can
take the Thai Airways limo from the airport to Phuket town for 50 baht, and
what is even more pleasant, this limo stops at the Thai office just in
front of the songthaew (public bus) station, where you can catch a ride to
any of the Phuket beaches (20 baht maximum). This is super convient if you
need to go back to the airport too. The Thai limo stand is just in front of
the exit doors in the airport, as you come away from the baggage area, so
you can't miss it. Tell those taxi drivers to get some fresh air!
I ended up at Kamala Bay only because I was so shocked at the bungalow
prices on the other beaches. I arrived Phuket town early in the morning,
and rented a 125cc "dirt bike" for a couple days so I could have a good
look around before I settled somewhere. I went south to Hat Rawai, and then
north along the west coast via Hat Nai Han, Kata, Karon and Patong, but
could find nothing livable for under 250 or 300 baht. This was a shock
after the great place on Samui for only 100 baht a night. There is a cheap
place on Hat Nai Han, across the way from the Phuket Yacht Club, called
Sunset, but it is laid out on a rather steep hill and is not very
accessible. All the others I saw, especially on Kata and Karon beaches,
were either full, or too expensive. Note that high season on Phuket begins
on 1 November, not 1 December. In general, I would say Phuket is worth a
miss, as there are better beaches and better everything at many of the
smaller islands to the east and south of Phuket. If you like the French or
Italian Riviera during the summertime, you may like Phuket, but otherwise
it is a place to check out of quickly. Even the swimming is better
elsewhere.
Ko Phi Phi: Twin Palms Guest House
THB 80, USD 3.24
Single, bath downstairs
A double decked apartment style complex owned by a German guy. It was
the cheapest place I could find, but is recommendable only because of the
price. Ko Phi Phi is not known for cheap bungalows, especially in the high
season! You must arrive before noon, if not earlier, if you are going to
find a place to stay. And if the electricity generator at your complex
breaks down, watch out if the owners pass out candles! Those bamboo
bungalows burn to the ground very quickly!
The snorkeling here is excellent, especially on the full day "around
the island" tours. Price on these is 150 baht I think, mask and tube
included. Bargain hard enough and you can get lunch included (you must take
food with you otherwise, as it is a full 8 hours at sea). Maya Bay, on the
north side of Phi Phi Le, has the best accessible snorkeling in Thailand in
my opinion. Great!
Phuket: On On Hotel
THB 80, USD 3.24
Single, bath down the hall
Stayed here for a night because I had to catch the flight to Langkawi
early the next morning. Good place. Malaysian Airlines is now flying once a
week on Fridays to Langkawi, at 970 baht one way. It is very convient, as a
road and ferry trip to this island from Phuket or Krabi would require a
full 24 hours of travel, an overnight in Kuala Perlis and would cost about
600 baht anyway. The flight takes only 50 minutes.
Langkawi: Chenang Beach Motel
Pantai Chenang
MYR 30, USD 11.40
Double, bath
Checked into the first place I came across, even though it was on the
expensive side, thinking I would get a scooter for an island tour to find
the best beach. As it turned out, a big Malaysian school holiday had
started a week earlier and the whole island was booked out. I stopped at
ten or more places, but all were completely full until the middle of
December, when the regular tourist high season would begin! Arrive early in
the day here, even though it is a big island.
The best beach is Pantai Kok. The Malaysian and local governments are
much more strict about bungalow construction than in Thailand, so there are
only about 5 places to stay here. This beach is just down the road from the
Seven Waterfalls, where you can have a delicious fresh water swim. Highly
recommended.
Unfortunately, it is a bit difficult to get around this big island and
good maps are hard to find. There is a public bus system, but it will get
you to and from Kuah, where the ferries dock, only. If you arrive by ferry
at Kuah, it is a good idea to find yourself a long term scooter rental
right away, for the whole of your stay maybe. You should be able to get one
for 15 ringgit a day, lower for longer periods. The roads are very good
here, and there is little traffic. If you arrive at the airport, you will
have to take a taxi to one of the beaches, where you can find a scooter
rental. Fortunately, taxis are cheap enough in Malaysia, and there not
shoddy cars either!
In November of 1990 a new ferry service started between Kuah, on
Langkawi, and Satun, a coastal town in southern Thailand. There were fewer
than 10 passengers (boat holds 50 or so) when I used it in mid-November, so
don't absolutely count on it as it is being run now on a test basis. On the
other hand, it is possible to charter a longboat from Kuala Perlis on the
Malaysian coast to Satun or vice versa. This is one of the most interesting
ways to cross the Thai-Malaysian frontier, on any one of these boats. The
boats pull right into the Custom and Immigration stations.
For the adventurous, there are a number of islands to visit off the
coast from Satun, between Satun and Trang in particular. They are very much
off the beaten path and are thus super quiet, but it takes time and
patience to get to them. Ko Tarutao is the largest (you can see it from the
north coast of Langkawi), but there are countless others, none of them
covered in the Lonely Planet guides, few of them with accommodation. The
only way to find them is to get a good map of southwestern Thailand (try
the D.K. Bookstores in Hat Yai or Bangkok), and then go to those places
along the coast where the longboats come in. The cheapest way to get to
them is to ride with the guy who comes in for supplies, but you have to
hang around on the coast to see what is going on offshore. Time and
patience is all you need!
There is a new place called Pansand Resort, on Ko Bulon-lae, about an
hour by longboat off the coast from Pak Bara. They have an office in Trang
(First Andaman Travel, opposite Queen's Hotel), but it is probably just as
easy to ask for Hassan at the pier in Pak Bara. He comes in once a day for
supplies, so you will have to spend the night there if you miss him. The
photos of his place look great, the island is deserted except them and he
and his cousin speak enough English to get you by. Definitely worth a look
I think. Bring your cassette tapes with you!
The only downside to these smaller islands is that prices tend to be
higher. Food and drink has to be brought in by longboat every day, but most
importantly, since there is only one bungalow complex, there is no
competition. You pay whatever because you don't have any other option. It
is a good idea to ask about bungalow prices before you get on the boat, and
about restaurant prices so you know what to expect. Bring plenty of small
bills, and whatever personal items you need. You will definitely not find
toothpaste or the like on these islands. You can always ask the guys with
the boat to pick something up for you, but there will always be that extra
service charge on top. The islands are well worth the extra effort though,
anyway.
Hat Yai: Pacific Hotel
THB 120, USD 4.87
Single, private bath
Just a block away from the Cathay Guest House, which was full at the
time. Good for one night, either of these places, while you wait for
transport elsewhere. It is possible to go directly from Satun to Trang, but
I wanted to leave one of my bags somewhere for a couple of weeks and would
be going through Hat Yai again on the way south. Not bad anyway, this town.
Ko Hai: Ko Hai Villa
THB 200, USD 8.12
Bamboo hut, private bath
Local bus Hat Yai to Trang, mini-van Trang to Pak Meng, small ferry Pak
Meng to Hat Yai, all in one day for under 200 baht. The ferry alone was 100
baht. The mini-vans from Trang to Pak Meng leave regularly, but you will
have to have a tuk-tuk driver take you to the place where they park (5 baht
for a tuk-tuk in Trang town). There are no signs, no printing on the side
of the vans, no nothing but a parking lot along the road north of town. If
arrive on a bus from Hat Yai or Satun, the bus driver can maybe drop you
right at this spot, if he knows it, since it is on the main north-south
highway, Route 4, on the north side of Trang. You should get to Pak Meng
early in the day though, as ferry prices increase the later it is (as
usual!) and there is no accommodation at Pak Meng.
Great island, Ko Hai! I went fishing a number of times with the kids,
and had some of the best fresh fish meals I have eaten. The cook is a very
friendly guy who got sick of Bangkok and now sleeps in a hammock between
two trees between drinking sessions (stock up on Mekong, as small bottles
sell for 80 baht out here). One of the Marine Police boats was also sort of
stationed there (the captain's wife works at Hai Island Resort, you see,
and he likes to see her at night, so his crew sits around shooting the bull
with the farangs (foreigners) at Ko Hai Villa). The youngest member of this
crew is a student who needs some English lessons for his University exam. I
paid 200 for my hut, but a Dutch girl was paying only 150 (I was foolishly
too lazy to negotiate the day I arrived). Very few people here, but the
swimming is good, the reefs okay, and the fishing excellent, with a spear
or a line. You must watch what you bring out of the water though, because
of the Marine Police hanging around all the time. It is illegal to use a
spear on some fish, etcetera. Ask the kids, or better, go with them in the
afternoon to catch your own dinner! All around one of the better islands in
the south.
All the farangs at the complex (seven of us I think) chartered a boat
one morning for a day trip to Ko Muk (70 baht each), where there is a big
open air cave and good snorkeling. Three of us chartered a boat one way to
Ko Lanta, to the north, at 400 baht total. We were dropped off at a small
village on the eastern side of this island, at the pier where the ferry
comes in from Ban Baw Muang, and had no problem getting a couple of kids to
drive us on their scooters up to Khaw Khang Beach.
Ko Lanta: Deer Creek Bungalows
Khaw Khang Beach
THB 200, USD 8.12
Double, luxury private bath
Went here for a night because the owner is the cousin of the owner of
Ko Hai Villa. Brand new place, very nice, with a good restaurant, but just
behind this complex a much cheaper place.
Khaw Khang Beach Bungalows
THB 50, 2.03
Bamboo hut, shower down the path
Tanaporn Kasirawat, the women who works at the front desk most
mornings, is one of the Thai people you meet who reminds you just why it is
that you like Thailand so much. She is bright and helpful, and is willing
to bargain, but since she has the lowest prices on the island already and
knows it, you will not get much past her! Stop in to say hello, even if you
are not staying here. She will also rent her scooter by the hour or day.
Everyone likes to talk about the coral reef near this complex, but it
is just average. On the other hand, the whole of Ko Lanta is an excellent
value as far as huts are concerned. Almost every complex is renting huts
for 50 baht a night, sometimes lower for longer stays, and there are many
of them along the west coast, so many that they go in and out of business
because of the stiff competition. The sand on the beaches is fine, and the
swimming is good, though the only reef is near Khaw Khang. Life on this
island may be a bit slow for some people, as there is no nightlife other
than the BS session in the bungalow restaurant every night and the frequent
kick boxing matches at the "stadium" in Ban Sala Dan (a must for everyone
as there are a couple of regional champions from this island). A scooter
trip to the southern tip of the island is worthwhile because of the good
views of the islands towards the south. All in all a good, cheap place if
you have been spending too much elsewhere. There is also a very nice beach
on Ko Klang, a small island just to the east of Ko Lanta, where the locals
go on holiday.
Transport to and from Ko Lanta via Ban Sala Dan, the main village on
the northern tip of the island, is extremely easy to manage, another good
reason to spend time here. It is possible to go by land with a couple 10
minute ferry rides between islands, but a number of larger boats also dock
at Ban Sala Dan, especially during the high season months December to
February. There is an express boat directly to Krabi, another to Krabi via
Ko Jam, and best of all another to Ko Phi Phi, where you can make ferry
connections to Phuket, Ao Nang, Phra Nang or Krabi.
Ko Phi Phi: Twin Palms Guest House
THB 120, USD 4.87
Single, bath downstairs
Back to see a friend. Prices have increased because of demand. If you
arrive on this island after 11am during the high season December to
February, you are going to pay 300 baht a night to rent a tent. Maybe more!
If you get desperate, you can walk over the hill or charter a longboat to
Hat Lanti on the eastern side of the island and sleep on the beach. Don't
even dream of walking without 3 full hours of daylight though.
Phra Nang: Ya Ya Bungalows
THB 80, USD 3.24
Bamboo highrise, bath downstairs
Bamboo bungalows stacked on top of one another against a big tree is
the typical arrangement here. One of the better ideas I seen actually, as
the top spots in the trees are comfortable because of the cool breeze off
the ocean. A highly recommendable complex, with a good restaurant and a
friendly staff. The only place I have seen in Thailand where there are
"discotheques" on the beach! Excellent atmosphere, good food, good prices,
and close enough to the coral to make snorkeling trips easy.
The scenery is excellent too, and it is not too crowded because it is a
bit difficult to get here. There is a ferry during the high season directly
from Ko Phi Phi, but coming from Krabi... It is possible to take a
songthaew to Ao Nang, and then charter a longboat from Ao Nang to Phra
Nang, but it is cheaper and more convient to find a boat directly from
Krabi to Phra Nang. You'll have to ask one of the travel agents near the
pier in Krabi town about this (try T.P. Travel at 38 Khongka Road, just
across from the Night Market and the pier, where the guys speak excellent
English).
Krabi: Pine Bungalows
Just across from Thai Hotel
THB 50, USD 2.03
Double, bath upstairs
A place to stay a night on the road to elsewhere, and the guys who run
it like to sell bus tickets cheaply. I paid 100 baht for a 4 hour mini-van
ride to Hat Yai (local bus is 70 baht and takes 6 to 7 hours). The night
market on the wharf is good for dinner, and very cheap. Krabi has some
amusing nightspots too, if you can find them!
Hat Yai: Pacific Hotel
THB 120, USD 4.87
Single, private bath
Left my bag here for two weeks, and find it in good shape. Visa expires
tomorrow. Aircon VIP bus to Singapore is 450 baht, but you must reserve in
advance. Also, make sure your agent understands that you are a TALL, and
that you would like to ride in a newer, larger bus. The best leave Hat Yai
at noon, arriving Singapore at 7am the next day. The mini-vans are 100 to
150 baht cheaper, but you will wish you had spent that extra money after 18
hours in one of them! Dinner and snack stops along the way, and many of the
stops on the Malaysian side of the frontier will accept payment in Thai
baht.
Singapore: Kian Hua Hotel
81, Bencoolen Street
SGD 35, USD 20.00
Double, bath down the hall
I could have found a cheaper place I guess, but it is now such hard
work here! Why anyone comes here anymore, I do not know, because there is
certainly nothing special to do and prices are high. This same room in
Thailand would be half the price...
Jogyakarta: Sahid Garden Hotel
IDR 51143, USD 27.18
Super deluxe double
Wanted to see the inside of a super nice place in Jogya. Room rate made
it a great deal, but don't touch the food or drink! On the other hand,
consider that for the same money in Rome, you are lucky if the light bulb
works...
Duta Guest House
20, Jalan Prawirotaman
IDR 18650, 9.91
Double, private bath
Swimming pool and good restaurant here. The staff is friendly and
helpful, and the pool makes the price very nice. There are many other
places on this street now, so you can shop around, but I doubt if there is
better value for money. There is a newstand down the street, but book
prices are high in Indonesia.
Bali: Taman Agung Beach Inn
Batujimbar, Sanur Beach
IDR 27750, USD 14.74
Double, private bath
Another excellent value for money place, but restaurant prices are a
bit high (amazingly, beer prices are okay though).
Sanur is more expensive, but much less sleazy, than Kuta, and is quieter
and has more trees and gardens. Taman Agung is considered cheap by Sanur
standards. A room in a hotel this beautiful in the States would 5 times as
expensive, at least! The beach is not any better than Kuta (both are pretty
lousy anyway), but there are locals selling meals and drinks on the beach,
so you won't starve. Good place after that 21 hour flight from Los Angeles.
Lombok: Losmen Pabean
Ampenan
IDR 5000, USD 2.65
Double, bath down the hall
Lots of local travelers stay here, as it is a good place to catch bemo
rides and the staff is helpful with transit info. I split the room with a
guy I met on the ferry, so paid 2500 IDR, about 1.33 USD, an all time low!
Very colorful place, but lots of noise from the TV and stereo (Indonesian
rock and roll at 6am!). Welcome cup of tea served on arrival, and breakfast
is included!
It is quite a trip by public bus from Sanur, on Bali, to Ampenan, on
Lombok, but it can be done very cheaply if you ignore the bemo drivers in
Sanur and Kuta who want you to charter their mini-vans. They will say that
there is no public transport to Padangbai, the ferry terminal for Lombok,
but they lie! You will have to change buses a number of times, but it
should be no more than 3000 rupiah on the public bus to Padangbai. Bargain
hard!
Good Heart Bungalows
Gili Trawangan
IDR 10000, USD 5.31
Bamboo hut, bath down the path
Price includes three meals per day, almost too much food! As with all
the places on this island, this complex is right on the beach and a very
good reef is just 15 meters from the shore. Walk around the island in 3 to
4 hours, if you do not stop at the Excellent Pub for a beer... There is
talk of big time development on this island, which would mean the small
bungalows would close. As with many of the beach bungalow complexes, no one
has a government permit here, which means that they (we) are basically
squatting on government land. There are probably a number of years left
before it happens, and it will be a shame when it does, because this place
is great for long stays.
As on all small islands in Asia, if you plan on staying more than a
couple days, as many people do ("planned for three days, stayed for three
weeks"), make sure to bring plenty of money, especially smaller bills.
There are no banks here, no money changers, no telephones, no cars, no
scooters, only one horse cart... You get the idea! The closest bank is a
full day trip to Ampenan or Mataram and back. Someone may change USDollar
cash notes for you if you are very desperate and beg a lot, but you will
not like the exchange rate.
Bali: ???
Padangbai
IDR 5000, USD 2.65
Single, shower down the path
It is a full day trip from Gili Trawangan back to Bali. It is possible
to make it all the way back to Sanur or Kuta before 7 or 8pm, but why not
stay in the north where bungalow prices are much more reasonable. Walk
along the shore near the ferry terminal and you will find a number of cheap
places on this beach, all with breakfast included. Chandi Dasa is just to
the north of here.
Taman Agung Beach Inn
Batujimbar, Sanur Beach
IDR 28050, USD 14.90
Double, private bath
Staying one night, as my flight leaves in the morning and I left my bag
here for two weeks. Price is higher for the same room because they quote in
USDollars. Value of the dollar increased, so rupiah price goes up. Many
better hotels do this in Indonesia.
Hotel Wirasana
Batujimbar, Sanur Beach
IDR 20000, USD 10.63
Double, private bath
Bumped off the flight today, so must wait for the next one. Jumped into
this place when they told me I could use the pool in the hotel next door
("the owner is good friends with the owner"). Price of the rooms next door
is triple! Rather noisy here up to 10pm, because of the big tourist
restaurant (not part of the complex) just in front of the place, where a
group of traditional Bali muscians play every night. Not bad for a night or
two. Again, by Sanur standards, this place is very cheap!
Plane: Bali to Los Angeles
Garuda Indonesia
Nineteen hours total in the same plane, with two fuel stops. It may
seem like a long one, but after a couple of months traveling in Asia you
should have no problem with it. It takes at least 19 hours by bus and ferry
from Bangkok to Ko Samui, and that won't be the only long trip you do. Hat
Yai to Singapore on the bus is 18 hours, etcetera. Enjoy it! Plan ahead for
it too.
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