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INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE FIRST TIME BREWER.
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How to Brew Your First Beer Rev D.2
---------------------------
This document is intended to be distributed freely and may be
copied for personal use.
Copyright © 1994 by John J. Palmer All Rights Reserved.
These instructions are designed for the first-time Brewer. What
follows can be considered an annotated recipe for a fool-proof
Ale beer. Why an Ale beer? Because Ales are the simplest to brew.
Brewing Beer is simple and complicated, easy and hard. Compare it
to fishing - Sit on the end of the dock with a can of worms and a
cane pole and you will catch fish. Going after a specific kind of
fish is when fishing gets complicated. Brewing the specific kind
of beer you want is the same thing. There are many different styles
of beer and many techniques to brew them.
Brewing a beer is a combination of several general processes. First
is the mixing of ingredients and bringing the solution (wort) to a
boil. Second is the cooling of the wort to the fermentation
temperature. Next the wort is transferred to the fermenter and the
yeast is added. After fermentation, the raw beer is siphoned off the
yeast sediment and bottled with a little extra sugar to provide the
carbonation. But there are three important things to keep in mind
every time you brew: Cleanliness, Preparation and Good Record Keeping.
Cleanliness
-----------
Cleanliness is the foremost concern of the brewer. After all,
Fermentation is the manipulation of living organisms, the yeast.
Providing good growing conditions for the yeast in the beer also
provides good growing conditions for other micro-organisms,
including bacteria. Cleanliness must be maintained throughout
every stage of the brewing process.
Preparation
-----------
Take the time to prepare your brewing area. Have the ingredients
ready on the counter. Prepare your brewing water. Have the ice on-
hand to cool the wort when its done boiling. Is the Fermenter
clean and sanitized? Make sure that all equipment is clean and
ready to go before starting. Patience and planning are necessities.
Record Keeping
--------------
Always keep good notes on what ingredients, amounts and times were
used in the brewing process. The brewer needs to be able to repeat
good batches and learn from poor ones.
Brewing Terms:
--------------
The following terms will be used throughout these instructions.
Many of the terms come from German and appropriate pronunciations
are given. On the other hand, German pronunciation is optional.
Ale - A beer brewed from a top-fermenting yeast with a relatively
short, warm fermentation.
Alpha Acid Units (AAU) - A homebrewing measurement of Hops. Equal
to the weight in ounces multiplied by the percent of Alpha Acids.
Attenuation - The degree of conversion of sugar to alcohol and CO2.
Beer - Any beverage made by fermenting malted barley and seasoning
with Hops.
Cold Break - Proteins that coagulate and fall out of solution when
the wort is rapidly cooled prior to Pitching the yeast.
Conditioning - An aspect of Secondary Fermentation in which the yeast
refine the flavors of the final beer. Conditioning continues in
the bottle.
Fermentation - The total conversion of malt sugar to beer, defined
here as two parts, Primary and Secondary.
Hops - Hop vines are grown in cool climates and brewers make use
of the cone-like flowers. The dried cones are available in Pellets,
Plugs, or whole.
Hot Break - Proteins that coagulate and fall out of solution
during the wort boil.
Gravity - Like density, gravity describes the concentration of malt
sugar in the wort. The specific gravity of water is 1.000 at 59F.
Typical beer worts range from 1.035 - 1.055 before fermentation
(Original Gravity).
International Bittering Units (IBU) - A more precise method of
measuring Hops. Equal to the AAU multiplied by factors for percent
utilization, wort volume and wort gravity.
Krausen (kroy-zen) - Used to refer to the foamy head that builds
on top of the beer during fermentation. Also an advanced method of
priming.
Lager - A beer brewed from a bottom-fermenting yeast and given a
long cool fermentation.
Pitching - Term for adding the yeast to the fermenter.
Primary Fermentation - The initial fermentation activity marked
by the evolution of carbon dioxide and Krausen. Most of the total
attenuation occurs during this phase.
Priming - The method of adding a small amount of fermentable sugar
prior to bottling to give the beer carbonation.
Racking - The careful siphoning of the beer away from the Trub.
Secondary Fermentation - A period of settling and conditioning of
the beer after Primary Fermentation and before bottling.
Trub (trub or troob) - The sediment at the bottom of the fermenter
consisting of Hot and Cold Break material and dead yeast.
Wort (wart or wert) - The malt-sugar solution that is boiled
prior to fermentation.
Zymurgy - The science of Brewing and Fermentation.
Required Equipment
------------------
Airlock - Several styles are available. Fill to the water line
with bleach water (1T per gallon) and cap it (if it has one).
Boiling Pot - Must be able to comfortably hold a minimum of 3
gallons; bigger is better. Use only Stainless Steel or Ceramic-
coated Steel. Aluminum and plain steel may give off-flavors.
Bottles - Two cases of recappable 12 oz bottles. Use Corona or
heavier glass import bottles. Twist-offs do not work well. Used
champagne bottles are ideal if you can find them.
Bottle Capper - Either Hand Capper or Bench Capper. Bench Cappers
are more versatile and are needed for the champagne bottles, but
are more expensive.
Bottle Caps - Either standard or oxygen absorbing are available.
Bottle Filler - Rigid plastic (or metal) tube with spring loaded
valve at the tip for filling bottles.
Bottle Brush - Necessary for first, hard-core cleaning of used
beer bottles.
Fermenter(s) - The 6 gallon food-grade plastic pail is recommended
for beginners. These are very easy to work with. Glass carboys are
also available, in 5, 6, and 7.5 gallon sizes.
Racking Cane - Rigid plastic tube with sediment stand-off.
Siphon/Hose - Available in several configurations, consisting of
clear plastic tubing with optional Racking Cane and Bottle Filler.
Stirring Paddle - Food grade plastic paddle (spoon) for stirring
the wort during boiling.
Thermometer - Obtain a thermometer that can be safely immersed in
the wort and has a range of at least 40F to 150F. The floating
dairy thermometers are great.
Optional but Highly Recommended
-------------------------------
Bottling Bucket - A 6 gallon food-grade plastic pail with
attached spigot and fill-tube. The finished beer is racked into
this for priming prior to bottling. Racking into the bottling
bucket allows clearer beer with less sediment in the bottle. The
spigot set-up is used instead of the Bottle Filler above, allowing
greater control of the fill level and no hassles with a siphon
during bottling.
Ingredients
-----------
Commercial beer kits always provide 3-4 pounds of malt extract and
instructions to add a couple pounds of sugar. Don't Do It! The
resultant beer will have an unpleasant cidery taste. The following
is a basic beer recipe:
5-7 pounds of Hopped Pale Malt Extract syrup. (OG of 1.038 - 1.053)
5 gallons of water.
1-2 ounces of Hops (if desired for more hop character)
1 packet of dry Ale yeast, plus 1 packet for back-up.
3/4 cup corn sugar for Priming.
This is a basic Ale beer and quite tasty. You will be amazed.
Further descriptions of the ingredients follow.
Malt Extract:
-------------
Using Malt Extract is what makes first time brewing simple.
Malt Extract is the concentrated sugars extracted from malted
barley. It is sold in both the liquid and powdered forms. The
syrups are approximately 20 percent water, so 4 pounds of dry Malt
Extract (DME) is roughly equal to 5 pounds of Malt Extract syrup.
Malt Extract is available in both the Hopped and Unhopped
varieties. Munton & Fison, Alexanders, Coopers, Edme and Premier
are all good brands. Screen the ingredients to avoid corn sugar.
Using Unhopped means adding 1-2 ounces of Hops during the boil for
bittering and flavor. Hops may also be added to the Hopped
Extracts towards the end of the boil for more Hop character in the
final beer.
A rule of thumb is 1 pound of malt extract (syrup) per gallon of
water for a light bodied beer. One and a half pounds per gallon
produces a richer, full bodied beer. One pound of malt extract syrup
typically yields a gravity of 1.034 - 38 when dissolved in one gallon
of water. Dry malt will yield about 1.040 - 43. Malt extract is
commonly available in Pale, Amber and Dark varieties, and can be mixed
depending on the style of beer desired. Wheat malt extract is also
available and more new extracts are coming out each year. With the
variety of extract now available, there is almost no beer style that
cannot be brewed using extract alone.
The next step in complexity for the homebrewer is to learn how to
extract the sugars from the malted grain himself. This process, called
Mashing, allows the brewer to take more control of producing the wort.
This type of homebrewing is referred to as All-Grain brewing.
Water
-----
The water is very important to the resulting beer. After all,
beer is mostly water. If your tap water tastes good at room
temperature, it should make good beer. It will just need to be
boiled for a few minutes to remove the chlorine and kill any
bacteria. If the water has a metallic taste, let it cool before
using to let the excess minerals settle out. Do not use water
from a salt based water softener. Do not use Distilled (De-ionized)
water. Beer, and Ale particularly, needs the minerals for flavor.
The yeast needs the minerals for proper growth. A good bet for
your first batch of beer is the bottled water sold in most
supermarkets as Drinking Water. Use the 2.5 gallon containers. Use
one container for boiling the extract and set the other aside for
addition to the fermenter later.
Hops
----
This is another involved subject. There are many varieties of
Hops, but they are divided into two main categories: Bittering and
Aroma. Bittering Hops are high in Alpha Acids (the main bittering
agent), typically around 10 percent. Aroma Hops are lower, around
5 percent. Several Hop varieties are in between and are used for
both purposes. Bittering Hops are added at the start of the boil
and usually boiled for an hour. Aroma Hops are added towards the
end of the boil and are typically boiled for 15 minutes or less
(Finishing). Hops can also be added to the fermenter for increased
hop aroma in the final beer, called Dry Hopping, but this is best
done during Secondary Fermentation. A mesh bag, called a Hop Bag,
may be used to help retain the hops and make removal of the Hops
easier prior to fermentation. Straining or removal of the Hops
before fermentation is largely a matter of personal preference.
Published beer recipes often include a Hops schedule, with amounts
and boil times specified. Other recipes specify the Hops in terms
of AAUs and IBUs. AAUs are a convenient unit for specifying Hops
when discussing Hop additions because it allows for variation in
the Alpha Acid percentages between Hop varieties. For the purposes
of this recipe, 7 AAUs are recommended for the Boil (60 minutes)
and 4 AAUs for Finishing (15 minutes). This is assuming the use
of Unhopped malt extract; if using Hopped, then only add the
4 AAUs for finishing. In this recipe, these amounts correspond
to 22 IBUs for the boil, and 1.25 IBU for the finish. IBUs allow
for variation in brewing practices between brewers, yet provide
for nearly identical final Hop bitterness levels in the beers.
This recipe is not very bitter.
For more information, see the Recommended Reading section.
Yeast
-----
There are several aspects to yeast; it is the other major factor
in determining the flavor of the beer. Different yeast strains will
produce different beers when pitched to identical worts. Yeast is
available both wet and dry, for Ale and Lager, et cetera. For
the first-time brewer, a dry Ale yeast is highly recommended. There
are several brands available, including Coopers, Edme, Nottingham,
and Red Star. All of these listed will produce good results.
Ale yeast are referred to as top-fermenting because much of the
fermentation action takes place at the top of the fermenter, while
Lager yeasts would seem to prefer the bottom. While many of
today's strains like to confound this generalization, there is one
important difference, and that is temperature. Ale yeasts like
warmer temperatures, going dormant below 55F (12C), while Lager
yeasts will happily work at 40F. Using Lager yeast at Ale
temperatures 65-70F (18-20C) produces Steam Beer, or what is
now termed California Common Beer. Anchor Steam Beer (tm) was the
founder of this unique style.
For more information, see the Recommended Reading section.
Yeast Starter
-------------
Liquid yeast must be and all yeast should be, pitched to a Starter
before pitching to the beer in the fermenter. Using a starter gives
yeast a head start and prevents weak fermentations from
under-pitching. Dry Yeast should be re-hydrated before pitching.
Re-hydrating dry yeast is simple.
1. Put 1 cup of warm (90F, 35C) boiled water into a sterile jar
and stir in the yeast. Cover with Saran Wrap and wait 10 minutes.
2. Stir in one teaspoon of sugar.
3. Cover and place in a warm area out of direct sunlight.
4. After 30 minutes or so the yeast should be actively churning
and foaming. This is now ready to pitch.
Liquid yeast is regarded as superior to Dry yeast because of the
refinement of yeast strains present and little risk of bacterial
contamination during manufacture. Liquid yeast allows for
greater tailoring of the beer to a particular style. However, the
amount of yeast in a liquid packet is much less than the amount
in the dry. For best results, it needs a starter. The packet must
be squeezed and warmed to 80F at least two days before brewing.
One day before, it should be pitched to a wort starter made from
1/4 cup of DME and a pint of water that has been boiled and cooled
to 75F (25C). Adding a quarter teaspoon of yeast nutrient is also
advisable. Let this sit in the same warm place until brewing time
the next day. Some foaming or an increase in the white yeast layer on
the bottom should be evident. The Starter process may be repeated to
provide even more yeast to the wort to insure a strong fermentation.
The Wort and Oxygen
-------------------
The use of oxygen in brewing is a double-edged sword. The yeast need
oxygen to grow and multiply enough to provide a good fermentation.
When the yeast has first been pitched, whether to the starter or
the beer, it first seeks to reproduce. The yeast makes use of the
dissolved oxygen in the wort for this. Boiling the wort drives out
the dissolved oxygen, which is why aeration of some sort is needed
prior to fermentation. The yeast first use up all of the oxygen in
the wort for reproduction, then get down to the business of turning
sugar into alcohol and CO2 as well as processing the other flavor
compounds.
On the other hand, if oxygen is introduced while the wort is still
hot, the oxygen will oxidize the wort and the yeast cannot utilize
it. This will later cause oxidation of the beer which gives a wet
cardboard taste. The key is temperature. The generally accepted
temperature cutoff for preventing hot wort oxidation is 80F. In
addition, if oxygen is introduced after the fermentation has
started, it will not be utilized by the yeast and will later cause
the wet cardboard or sherry-like flavors.
This is why it is important to cool the wort rapidly to below 80F,
to prevent oxidation, and then aerate it by shaking or whatever to
provide the dissolved oxygen that the yeast need. Cooling rapidly
between 90 and 130F is important because this region is ideal for
bacterial growth to establish itself in the wort.
Most homebrewers use cold water baths around the pot or copper
tubing Wort Chillers to accomplish this cooling in about 20 minutes
or less. A rapid chill also causes the Cold Break material to
settle out, which decreases the amount of protein Chill Haze in
the finished beer.
Aeration of the wort can be accomplished several ways:
shaking the container, pouring the wort into the fermenter so it
splashes, or even hooking up an airstone to an aquarium air pump
and letting that bubble for an hour. For the latter method, (which
is popular) everything must be sanitized! Otherwise, Infection City.
These instructions recommend shaking the starter and
pouring/shaking the wort. More on this later.
Sanitization
------------
So far, sanitization of ingredients and equipment has been
discussed but not much has been said about how to do this. The
definition and objective of sanitization is to reduce bacteria and
contaminants to insignificant or manageable levels. Sterilization
is not really possible. The Starter solution, Wort and Priming
solutions will all be boiled, so those are not a problem (usually).
One note - Do Not Boil the Yeast! You need them to be alive.
The easiest sanitizing solution is made be adding 1 tablespoon
of bleach to 1 gallon of water (4 ml per liter). This can be
prepared in the Fermenting Bucket. Immerse all of equipment -
airlock, hoses, paddles, rubber stopper, fermenter lid and
anything else contacting the beer. Let it sit for 20 minutes.
Rinsing is not really necessary at this concentration, but rinsing
with boiled water may be done.
Clean all equipment as soon as possible. This means rinsing out
the fermenter, tubing, etc. as soon as they are used. It is very
easy to get distracted and come back to find the syrup or yeast
has dried hard as a rock and the equipment is stained. Keep a large
container with chlorine water handy and just toss things in, clean
later.
Rinsing bottles after each use eliminates the need to scrub
bottles. If your bottles are dirty, moldy or whatever,
soaking and washing in a mild solution of chlorine bleach water
for a day or two will soften most residue. Brushing with a bottle
brush is a necessity to remove stuck residue. Dish washers are
great for cleaning the outside of bottles and heat sterilizing,
but will not clean the inside where the beer is going to go; that
must be done beforehand. Trisodium Phosphate and B-Brite also
work very well but must be rinsed carefully. Do not wash with soap.
This leaves a residue which you will be able to taste. Never use
any scented cleaning agents, these odors can be absorbed into the
plastic buckets and manifest in the beer. Fresh-Lemon Scented
Pinesol Beer is not very good. Also, dishwasher Rinse Agents will
destroy the Head retention on your glassware. If you pour a beer
with carbonation and no head, this is a common cause.
Beginning the Boil
------------------
Bring 2 1/2 gallons water to a boil in a large pot. Meanwhile,
re-hydrate the dry yeast. When the water is boiling, remove from
the heat. Add all the malt syrup to the hot water and stir until
dissolved. Make sure there is no syrup stuck to the bottom of the
pot by scraping the bottom of the pot with the spoon while
stirring. It is very important not to burn any malt stuck to the
bottom when the pot is returned to the heat. Burnt sugar tastes
terrible.
The following stage is critical. The pot needs to be watched
continuously. Return the pot to the heat and bring to a rolling
boil, stirring frequently. Start timing the hour.
If you are adding bittering hops, do so now.
A foam may start to rise and form a smooth surface. This is
good. If the foam suddenly billows over the side, this is a boil-
over (Bad). The liquid is very unstable at this point and remains
so until it goes through the Hot Break (when the wort stops
foaming). This may take 5-20 minutes. The foaming can be
controlled by lowering the heat and/or spraying some water on the
surface from a spray bottle. The heat control using an electric
range is poor. Try to maintain a rolling boil. Boiling 2.5 - 3
gallons can be maintained fairly easily on an electric stove.
Boiling the full 5 gallons of water on electric ranges is almost
impossible (not enough heat) and dangerous to lift when the boil
is over.
Continue the rolling boil for the remainder of the hour.
Stir occasionally to prevent scorching. There may be a change in
color and aroma and there will be particles floating in the wort.
This is not a concern, its the hot break material. If you are
adding the finishing hops, do so during the last fifteen minutes.
Add during the last five minutes if more hop aroma is desired.
This provides less time for the volatile oils to boil away.
Cooling the Wort
----------------
At the end of the boil, cooling the wort is very important. While
it is above 130F, bacteria and wild yeasts are inhibited. It is
very susceptible to oxygen damage as it cools though. There are
also sulfur compounds that evolve while the wort is hot. If the
wort is cooled slowly these di-methyl sulfides can dissolve back
into the wort causing cabbage or cooked vegetable flavors in the
final beer. The objective is to rapidly cool the wort to below 80F
before oxidation or contamination can occur. Here is one preferred
method for cooling the wort.
Place the pot in a sink or tub filled with cold/ice water that can
be circulated around the hot pot. While the cold water is flowing
around the pot, gently stir the wort in a circular pattern so the
maximum amount of wort is moving against the sides of the pot. If
the water gets warm, replace with cold water. The wort will cool
to 80F in about 20 minutes. When the pot is still warm to the touch,
the temperature is close enough.
Pour the reserved 2.5 gallons of water into the sanitized
fermenter. Pour the warm wort into it, allowing vigorous churning
and splashing. Oxidation of the wort is minimal at these
temperatures and this provides the dissolved oxygen that the yeast
need to reproduce. Combining the warm wort with the cool water
should bring the mixture to fermentation temperature. It is best
for the yeast if the pitching temperature is the same as the
fermentation temperature. For Ale yeasts, the fermentation
temperature range is 65-75F. (The temperatures mentioned are not
absolutely critical and a thermometer is not absolutely
necessary, but is nice to have.)
Note: Do not add commercial ice to the wort to cool. Commercial
Ice harbors lots of dormant bacteria that would love a chance to
work on the new beer. Bottled Drinking Water is usually pasteurized
or otherwise sanitized to inhibit contamination.
Pitching the Yeast
------------------
If the Dry Yeast Starter is not foaming or churning, add the
backup yeast. Repeat the re-hydration procedure and then pitch
the Yeast Starter into the beer, making sure to add it all. Put
the lid in place and seal it. Do not put the airlock in quite yet.
Place a piece of clean Saran Wrap over the hole in the lid and
cover it with your hand.
With the fermenter tightly sealed, pick it up, sit in a chair, put
the fermenter on your knees and shake it several minutes to churn it
up. This mixes the yeast into the wort and provides more dissolved
oxygen that the yeast need to grow. Wipe off any wort around the
hole with a paper towel that is wet with bleach water and place the
sanitized airlock and rubber stopper in the lid. The airlock should
be filled to the line with the bleach water solution.
Active fermentation should start within 12 hours. It can be longer
for liquid yeasts because of lower cell counts, about 24 hours.
Fermentation
------------
Put the fermenter in a protected area like the bathtub. If foam
escapes it will run down the drain and is easy to clean. The
temperature here is usually about the most stable in the house.
Animals and small children are fascinated by the smell and noises
from the airlock, so keep them away.
The airlock should be bubbling in twelve hours. Maintain a
consistent temperature if possible. Fluctuating temperature
strains the yeast and could impair fermentation. On the other
hand, if the temperature drops overnight and the bubbling stops,
simply move it to a warmer room and it should pick up again. The
yeast does not die, it merely goes dormant. It should not be
heated too quickly as this can thermally shock the yeast.
In summary, if the temperature deviates too much or goes above
80F the fermentation can be affected, which then affects the flavor.
If it goes too low, the ale yeast will go into hibernation.
The fermentation process can be very vigorous or slow; either is
fine. The secret is in providing enough active yeast. Fermentation
time is a sum of several variables with the most significant
probably being temperature. It is very common for an ale with an
active ferment to be done in a short time. It could last a few
days, a week, maybe longer. Any of the above is acceptable.
Three days at 70F may be regarded as typical for the simple ale
being described here.
If the fermentation is so vigorous that the foam pops the airlock
out of the lid, just rinse it out with bleach water and wipe off
the lid before replacing it. Contamination is not a big problem
at this point. With so much coming out of the fermenter, not much
gets in. Once the bubbling slows down however, do not open the lid
to peek. The beer is still susceptible to infections, particularly
anaerobic ones like Lacto Bacillus, found in your mouth. It will do
just fine if left alone for a minimum of two weeks.
The fermentation of malt sugars into beer is a complicated
biochemical process. It is more than just attenuation, which can
be regarded as the primary activity. Total fermentation is better
defined as two phases, the Primary or Attenuative phase and a
Secondary or Conditioning phase. The yeast do not end Phase 1
before beginning Phase 2, the processes occur in parallel, but
the conditioning processes occur more slowly. This is why beer
(and wine) improves with age. Tasting the beer at bottling time
will show rough edges that will disappear after a few weeks in the
bottle. Because the conditioning process is a function of the yeast,
it follows that the greater yeast mass in the fermenter is more
effective at conditioning the beer than the smaller amount of
suspended yeast in the bottle. Leaving the beer in the fermenter for
a total of two or even three weeks will go a long way to improving
the final beer. This will also allow time for more sediment to
settle out before bottling, resulting in a clearer beer.
Use of Secondary Fermenters (Optional)
--------------------------------------
Using a two stage fermentation requires a good understanding of the
fermentation process. At any time, racking the beer can adversely
affect it because of potential oxygen exposure and contamination
risk. Racking the beer before the Primary fermentation phase has
completed can result in a stuck or incomplete fermentation and too
high a final gravity. Simple extract ales do not need to be racked
to a secondary fermenter. It can improve clarity and aspects of the
flavor, but wait until the second or third beer when you have more
experience with the brewing processes.
The reason for racking to a Secondary Fermenter is to prevent a
yeast breakdown called autolysis, and the resulting bad taste
imparted to the beer. This will not be a problem for these
relatively short fermentation-time ale beers. Other beer types,
like Lagers and some high-gravity beer styles, need to be racked
to a secondary because these sit on the yeast for a longer period
of time.
The following is a general schedule for a simple ale beer using a
secondary fermenter. Allow the Primary Fermentation stage to wind
down. This will be 3-4 days after pitching when the bubbling rate
drops off dramatically to about 1-5 per minute. Using a sanitized
siphon (no sucking!), rack the beer off the trub into a another
clean fermenter and affix an airlock. The beer should still be
fairly cloudy with suspended yeast. Racking from the primary may
be done at any time after primary fermentation has more-or-less
completed.(Although if it has been more than two weeks, you may
as well bottle.) Most brewers will notice a brief increase in
activity after racking, but then all activity may cease. This is
very normal. Fermentation (Conditioning) is still taking place,
so just leave it alone. A minimum useful time in the secondary
fermenter is two weeks. Overly long times in the secondary (for
ales- more than 6 weeks) may require the addition of fresh yeast
at bottling time for good carbonation. This is usually not a
concern.
See the Recommended Reading section for further information.
A Word About Hydrometers
------------------------
A hydrometer measures the relative specific gravity between pure
water and water with sugar dissolved in it. The hydrometer is used
to gauge fermentation by measuring one aspect of it, attenuation.
Attenuation is the conversion of sugar to ethanol by the yeast.
Water has a specific gravity of 1.000. Beers typically have a
final gravity between 1.015 and 1.005. Champagnes and meads can
have gravities less than 1.000, because of the large percentage
of ethyl alcohol, which is less than 1. By the way, hydrometer
readings are standardized to 59F, since liquid gravity (density)
is dependent on temperature. Temperature correction tables are
usually sold with a hydrometer or are available from Chemistry
Handbooks (ex. CRCs). Here is a short table of corrections:
50F => -.0006 70F => +.0012
55F => -.0003 75F => +.0018
59F => 0 80F => +.0026
65F => +.0006 85F => +.0033
A hydrometer is a useful tool in the hands of an experienced brewer
who knows what he wants to measure. Various books or recipes may
give Original and/or Final Gravities (OG and FG) of a beer to
assist the brewer in the evaluation of his success. For an average
beer yeast, a rule of thumb is that the FG should be about one
forth of the OG. For example, a common beer OG of 1.040 should
finish about 1.010 (or lower). A couple points either way is typical scatter.
It needs to be emphasized that the stated FG of a recipe is not the
goal. The goal is to make a good tasting beer. The hydrometer should
be regarded as only one tool available to the brewer as a means to
gauge the fermentation progress. The brewer should only be concerned
about a high hydrometer reading when primary fermentation has
apparently ended and the reading is about one half of the OG,
instead of the nominal one forth. Incidentally, if this situation
occurs, two remedies are possible. The first is to agitate or swirl
the fermenter to rouse the yeastbed from the bottom. The fermenter
should remain closed with no aeration. The goal is to re-suspend the
yeast so they can get back to work. The alternative is to pitch some
fresh yeast.
Hydrometers are necessary when making beer from scratch (all-grain
brewing) or when designing recipes. But the first-time brewer using known
quantities of extracts simply does not need one.
Priming & Bottling
------------------
This ale beer will be ready to bottle in two weeks when primary
fermentation has completely stopped. There should be few, if any,
bubbles in the airlock. The flavor won't improve by bottling any
earlier. Some books recommend bottling after the bubbling stops or
in about 1 week. It is not uncommon for fermentation to stop after
3-4 days and begin again a few days later. If the beer is bottled
too soon, the beer will be over-carbonated and the pressure may
exceed the bottle strength. Exploding bottles are a disaster.
After the bottles have been cleaned with a brush, rinse them with
sanitization solution or run in the dishwasher with the heat on
to sanitize. If using bleach solution, allow to drain upside down
in the six-pack holders or on a rack. Do not rinse out with tap
water unless it has been boiled. (Rinsing should not be necessary.)
Also sanitize priming container, siphon unit, stirring spoon and
bottle caps. But do not heat the bottle caps, as this may ruin the
gaskets or tarnish them.
Boil 3/4 cup of corn sugar or 1 and 1/4 cup Dry Malt Extract in
some water and let it cool. Here are two methods of Priming:
1. Pour this into the sanitized Bottling Bucket. Using your
sanitized siphon unit transfer the beer into the sanitized
bottling bucket. Place the outlet beneath the surface of the
priming solution. Do not allow the beer to splash as you don't want
to add oxygen to your beer at this point. Keep the intake end of
the racking tube an inch off the bottom of the fermenter to leave
the yeast and sediment behind. See Note on Siphoning.
2. Opening the fermenter, gently pour the priming solution into
the beer. Stir the beer gently with the sanitized paddle, trying
to mix it in evenly while being careful not to stir up the
sediment. Wait a half hour for the sediment to settle back down
and to allow more diffusion of the priming solution to take place.
Then siphon to your bottles.
Note on Siphoning: Do not suck on the hose to start the siphon. This
will contaminate the hose with Lacto Bacillus bacteria from your
mouth. Fill the hose with sanitizing solution prior to putting it
into the beer. Keep the end pinched or otherwise closed to prevent
the solution from draining out. Place the outlet into another
container and release the flow; the draining solution will start
the siphon. Once the siphon is started, transfer it to wherever.
Some books recommend 1 tsp. sugar per bottle for priming. This is
not recommended because it is time consuming and not precise.
Bottles may carbonate unevenly and explode.
Place the fill tube of the siphon unit or bottling bucket at the
bottom of the bottle. Fill slowly at first to prevent gurgling
and keep the fill tube below the waterline to prevent aeration. Fill
to about 3/4 inch from the top of the bottles. Place a sanitized
cap on the bottle and cap. Inspect every bottle to make sure the
cap is secure. Age the capped bottles at room temperature for two
weeks, out of direct sunlight. Aging up to two months will improve
the flavor considerably, but one week will do the job of
carbonation for the impatient.
It is not necessary to store the beer cool, room temperature is
fine. It will keep for several months. When cooled prior to serving,
some batches will exhibit chill haze. It is caused by proteins left
over from the initial cold break. It is nothing to worry about.
Some Things to Watch out for:
-----------------------------
Contamination of beer can happen at any stage of the brewing
process. Some are not readily apparent. But any problem that
can be easily drank will not cause physical harm. A few
infections that may cause severe gastric distress will first
be noted by their appalling smell. Here are some warning signs:
1. Mold floating on top of the fermenting beer. Toss it.
2. The beer has slimy strands in it. This is a sure sign of Lacto
infection. Toss it.
3. The bottled beer has a milky layer at the top and/or small
residue bumps clinging to the sides of the bottle neck in the
airspace. This is a micro-derm infection. The beer will smell
rotten and taste nasty. Do not confuse this with the dew that
condenses near the bottle cap; the dew is normal. Also, Priming
with DME will leave a protein ring around the top of the bottle,
just like what is left on the sides of the fermenter. This is also
normal.
4. The bottled beer has a very sweet smell, like molasses. This is
a sign of an Aceto (acetic) infection. The beer is on its way to
turning into malt vinegar. Malt vinegar is good, but not what was
intended.
5. The bottled beers are getting worse with time, a stale,
cardboard-like or sherry-like flavor is becoming noticeable.
This is a symptom of oxidation. Drink the beers sooner and try
to avoid splashing the hot wort next time.
6. A skunk-like or cat-musk smell. The beer is light struck.
Always store beer in a dark or shaded area.
Recommended Reading:
--------------------
Periodicals:
Zymurgy - The magazine for the Homebrewer. They also publish
Special Issues which provide in-depth information on various
subjects, including Hops, Malts, Styles, Equipment, etc.
Brewing Techniques - A magazine for more advanced home and
microbrewing. It explores the science of Brewing.
The HomeBrew Digest - the computer zine available online by
sending the word SUBSCRIBE to [email protected]
It is worth its weight in platinum.
Homebrew FAQ - FTP from sierra.stanford.edu
Yeast FAQ - FTP from sierra.stanford.edu
Hops FAQ - FTP from sierra.stanford.edu
Books:
The Complete Handbook of Homebrewing - by Dave Miller
A great book for all the basics, highly recommended for
beginning and intermediate brewers.
Brewing the Worlds Great Beers - Dave Miller
Another good book which explores the basics of beer making
in a simpler approach than his Handbook.
Brewing Lager Beer - by Greg Noonan
A more technical book for the Lager brewer who wants to know Why.
He covers the lager brewing processes in-depth.
The New Complete Joy of Homebrewing - by Charlie Papazian
Not as recommended for beginning brewers because it contains
some poor practices (like pouring Hot wort into cold water).
Good info in the later pages, though applicable
to more experienced brewers who know what to look for.
Principles of Brewing Science - by George Fix
Explains the fundamentals of biochemistry involved in
Fermentation. A great book to really understand the brewing
process.
Essentials of Beer Style - by Fred Eckhardt
A good book for targeting beer styles, provides information
that can be used for formulating your own recipes for
commercial beers.
The Pocket Guide to Beer - by Micheal Jackson
The most complete book of all the worlds beers and styles.
The beers of each country/brewery are rated to a 4 star system.
A must for beer connoisseurs.
Using Hops - by Mark Garetz
A good reference book for the different Hop varieties and their
usages. Provides a more complete discussion of Hop Utilization
and Bittering than can be found in other current publications.
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